Thought I’d post this as it might help someone else with similar problems. My system is a closed system whereby the liquids enter a tank and then are pumped uphill to the leach field. There is a long run (100 feet) up the side of my house where the 1 1/2” PVC pipe makes a right turn through a check valve and T’s off into a 4 x 20’ pipe loop. Basically the liquids stopped pumping into the leach field. A septic professional thought either the check valve could have malfunctioned and froze shut or the leach field was clogged with sludge or the 1/4” holes in the pipes became clogged and una ...
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Your link does not work. Is this a better link for you? https://porch.com/statesville-nc/septic-tank-contractors/lentz-wastewater-management-inc-/pp Grizz   [End]
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Unfortuatly, its hard to find businesses that operate with integrity. We use jetting pretty frequently. We are not going to gain any customers, in the long term, by not helping homeowners save as much money as they can. Referrals are the majority of our business. We are a small septic repair and installation company, family owned and operated. Our speciality is repairing septic systems. We pride ourselves on being able to find a solution to the toughest septic problems, without having to replace the system. We have been in business for over 20 years. Read about some of the services ...
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We have had excellent results with the Terralift machine. We bought our first machine in 1996. Not all drain field problems can be solved with Terralift. Terralift will not work if a system is being abused or over used. Read more about Terralift here: https://www.lentzwastewater.com/drainfield-terralift   [End]
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Septic Information for saturated drain field http://www.lentzwastewater.com   [End]
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There is are two ways to avoid the SCAM of a new drinfield. Both are detailed in my special report. Your problem is caused by clogged up drain field pipes. The pipes get so clogged up that they block the flow of water. 1) There are companies in business that specialize in using a high pressure water pump to blast out the drain field pipes, then they use air pressure to ”crack” the field. I have videos & details of this in my file. You can add chemicals to the drainfield ( Not the tank ) 2) Add a LOT of worms to your drainfield. Australia uses worms extensively for drainfield cleari ...
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Hi, I have been renting out a house in Florida. It was build in 1980. Last year the flow became sluggish and started to overflow. I called in a septic pump, and they pumped it. 3 month later it happened again. I started to add RidX and this time it took about 4 months. I told the tenant to add RidX once every 2 weeks. Then I had it pumped. And most recently the backup happened 6 months (He did not use RidX for sometime tho). The drainfield is not wet. But the plumber did say I may need a whole new drainfield? But I have been reading online and it says there are some possible sol ...
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11-28-16 Pulled the Cover and Cleaned the Exit Filter a Few weeks ago. Ready for winter. Extremely Heavy Rains had slowed flow a little, but no real problems. As of today, all is working well. Conserve and Maintain! Tanks/Lines/Fields Can be restored!   [End]
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I think that worms are miracle workers for septic systems. They are used extensively in Australia where worms are the main component in septic systems. I have done complete research on worms in my report toward the end, including which worms work best. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HL-0iahk8hPwqclnajsgFnaDEq6JGNMZLaCZ14c2rps/edit?pli=1 Worms are also becoming popular in England. Unfortunately the USA is way behind in this technology. Best of luck to you, & let us know how this works out for you, Grizz   [End]
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Hi Grizz I just wanted to say a big thank you for the enormous amount of research and tireless in-putting on this subject. My problem hopefully is not as bad as yours. My septic tank needed to be pumped out back in March. I’ve lived here for 13 years and never had to have it done and the previous owner lived here since it was built in 1980 and he never had it pumped either. We added a holiday let to the system, being used about 26 weeks of the year with up to an additional 6 people living in it. Another thing was, I redirected a surface water overflow into the tanks to overcome a blockage ...
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Just a Final Note 5-22-16, this once Totally Failed system has been performing Great and looking forward to many more years! Semi-annual Filter rinses and it is good to go.   [End]
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I would not trust that stuff in MY septic tank. Best to toss it out in the garbage. Grizz   [End]
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”Worlds best Kitty Litter” says that it is made from corn, is biodegradable, and is safe to put into septic systems. I’m highly skeptical. Does anyone have any information on this?   [End]
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havoc, Thanks for the post. Is this the cess-flo that you used? Or another brand. http://www.amazon.com/PEQUA-INDUSTRIES-P-101-Cess-Flo-Cleaning/dp/B001G3ZIRK Reviews at Amazon are good for this product. Grizz   [End]
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Well just to update anyone who may be interested...... I made it through the winter without any issue. I frequently remove the cap from the outlet line going to my leachpit, and can see the ”water” slowly flowing down the pipe towards the field, with out backup. Of course that is only for a short while after showering or laundry, then the trickle of water slows down and stops. Therefore, looks like the system is doing it’s job, and I am very relieved knowing I can just dig down 2” and remove the cap and see the outlet is not plugged. That ensures my tanks not overfilled. When it’s just me ...
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having to be pumped out every few months. I assume you mean that the tank has to be pumped out too frequently? In most cases, the lateral pipes in the leach field get totally clogged up, as in PACKED with solid particles. there is only one course of action and that is to hydrojet the lateral pipes to remove ALL of the solidified sludge that fills the pipes. Please refer to the many videos that I have provided to see how clogged up the pipes get. Grizz   [End]
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Hello Grizz and all, thanks so much for the research and this wonderful place! My folks have a small rental house that appears to need a new leach field, having to be pumped out every few months. My current thought, after reading your bad experience with aerating, is to attempt prototyping a special type of outflow mechanized filter with durable medium that automatically water jet backwashes itself periodically. By this, I was hoping to attain a very fine particle filtration capability to prevent the potential leach field problems from aerating/stirring up the single tank. Any thoughts ...
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That could mean that you may be using too much water, or that your septic field is not draining it fast enough. You can add a separate line to handle the showers & the washing machine. Run all of that water into a gay water system to take the worst load off of your drain field. http://www.motherearthnews.com/green-homes/home-design/greywater-zm0z11zphe.aspx You can also increase the water flow in your field by adding many thousands of worms which provide natural aeration even in clay soil. I have done a lot of research on using worms in your field. I prefer using worms over chemic ...
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I understand; but is it ’normal’ for the lateral lines to be holding water all the time?   [End]
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you should be in good shape, then. the lateral lines are the pipes leaving the D-Box. Grizz   [End]
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I have jetted all my lines.   [End]
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Escape, You need to hydrojet all of your lateral pipes from the distribution box. The microscopic particles leaving your septic tank over the years have clogged up the lateral pipes underground. I did this myself with a high pressure water pump and a clog hog hose. But there are septic plumbers that will do this for you. Your septic system will give you never ending problems until you hydrojet the laterals. See the videos I’ve provided in my docs: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HL-0iahk8hPwqclnajsgFnaDEq6JGNMZLaCZ14c2rps/edit?pli=1# The videos in this document are SHOCKING b ...
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So like others I was having issues. After my research, at the time it seemed an aerorator was the answer, ch-ching $1500 later got one installed. A few months later the black sludge from the yard is gone! Yay! Then ~6months after that, ponding over my tank =( It seems the 'silver bullet' wasn't the answer, or I had compunded issues: I do have a single chamber tank, and high clay content soil, hard/well water with salt softner. That seems to be a deadly combination too; and could be why many folks around me have the sprayer style tanks (not sure of the name, it e ...
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Thanks, Grizz! I did for two days, put 5 lbs of sodium percarbonate 99% mixed with 5-10 gallons of water into the drainage pipe. Yesterday I ran the hose into the pipe for 5 mins or so, wide open, and no signs of drain field not taking the load. I am using the ”T” I installed on the outlet pipe as a riser(just for level inspection). It’s about 2” inches from the surface, and I figure if the tank is fuller than the outlet pipe will handle, it will be obvious, as the pipe would be backed up and full of effluent. As of right now, that pipe is dead empty. My old drainfield isnt too far from th ...
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Mike, It sounds to me like your hydrojet did its job and you should be OK. I would not do any more until you see how your tank is draining. The water level should not rise above the level of your exit pipe. Put a riser on your tank so you can easily check the level, I think you should be A-OK. Grizz   [End]
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Grizz1943 - I have seen your posts on a few sites, and you seem very ”In the know”. I have a house built in 1965, in southern maine. It sits upon ledge, at the top of a pretty steep hill. When I bought the home in 1996, at 26 years of age, I had the tank pumped and inspected. They found the outlet baffle had fallen off. I had it replaced at that time. It is just a 90 degree elbow with a few feet of pipe going down into tank. It just drains down into a leach bed of stone, surrounded by dark soil(old farmland). My tank is a 1000 gallon tank, and 2 out of the last 3 pumpings, it’s been full ...
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You seem pretty handy so congrats on investigating on your own. What is your household size and how many rooms/bathrooms do you have? You may need to do some investigating with your home inspector or the prior owner about prior disclosures, you may have a valid complaint, esp since it’s only been a few months. Check your county records if you can to see what your system looks like. Grizz has lived it and knows his stuff, so be sure to check his links. I had to take a chance and fight with my local septic company and the county for my own septic issues, and it was not fun. Shop around or a ...
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RM, Sorry to say this, but a 750 gal tank with only 1 leach line is totally inadequate. You should replace it with a new tank 1500 or more gallons with a minimum of 2 compartments. 3 compartments is best. http://www.deihlprecast.com/html/septic_tanks.html It should also be installed with risers above the tank and above the D-Box to make it serviceable in the future. The best options today for the drainfield leach lines are called the infiltrator: The Chamber system does not need a rock & gravel bed & highly recommended by most pros. http://www.septicsolutions.net/store/Infiltrato ...
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Bought my first house this year. LOVE IT. Came with a septic system, which was not a deal breaker for me. The previous owners had it pumped two months before we moved in. Within two weeks, there was about two inches of greywater pooling at the site of the septic tank and the washer wouldn’t drain. We had it pumped again, and the guy offered to charge us $600 to ’explore’. Pass. So we dug the hole, found: homemade concrete tank, approx. 740 gallons. one leach line, looks like 4” PVC pipe. The water is pooling where the leach line meets the tank, it disappears after several hours o ...
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Since you had installed an Aerator, the obvious answer is that your effluent filter is totally clogged up with sludge that was stirred up by the aerator. Remove your effluent filter from the exit side of your tank and clean it. The aerator stirs up sludge in your tank and packs this sludge into your effluent filter. If your tank does not have an effluent filter, then you should install one. I suggest moving your aerator into the D-Box where it will do the most good. An aerator should only be used in tanks designed for aeration. Typically a tank designed for aeration has multiple cha ...
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So here's the whole story in hopes that someone might pickup on a key here or there: So new house/septic Jul 2008. Didn't do anything but throw some RidX down the toilet semi regularly (monthly unless I forgot). Reading online at different intervals to pump I finally got it pumped out Apr 2014. 4 person house (adults as 2 are teens). Hard well water run thru a salt water softner (does not drain into tank/field). Also soil is very clay. So about 6 months after pumping I start getting soggy yard & then black sludge in the grass. Do some googeling (unfortunatl ... [Image Embedded Here]
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I suggest that you buy the Clog Hog direct. They will match the hose directly to your pressure pump, and will provide the correct fittings. Clog Hog also provides a very nice kit for maintaining the hose. Clog Hog also provides expert advice. Then save your Amazon Discount coupon for other purchases. Grizz   [End]
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I did & that name brand isn’t on there. But there are several other ”sewer jetter” hoses. I couldn’t find the adapters to the ’wand’ but think this is it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GN53H7Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and then do I get 1/8” or 1/4” 100’ hose to use on my little weak 1900psi / 1/5gpm washer? (plans to go bigger on next purchase, which seems annually) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MV3DH5E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ACXZDXAAF532Y just not sure my machine can push a 100’ hose; but 50’ really doesn’t help on 1 ...
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Search Amazon.Com for ”Clog Hog.” Grizz   [End]
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Following the great advice on here I’m going to jet my lateral lines. I see clog hog mentioned; but I just got an Amazon gift card, is there a similar product I can get on there for use with my electric pressure washer? I’ve started searching; but not really sure what I’m looking for!   [End]
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Grizz Thank you very much for the advice. Sounds like a great idea. I’ve been out of town, but I’ll get working on that! Thanks again Chris   [End]
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YES! Excellent idea! It will definitely help! You need to drill a 1/4 inch hole in the top of the pipe that exits your tank to provide an exit path for the air pressure from your aerator, or else the air may be forced up into your yard causing a stink. The air will find its way into the plumbing stack and exit the vent on the roof. Grizz   [End]
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Interesting read. I am wanting to try to rejuvenate my field, I was thinking about aerating it at the tank and then have seen problems online like listed above. Now I am considering actually aerating my field. I’ve got a clean out between my tank and field (after the filter in the tank of course) and I could drop a hose down there with an blubber. It shouldn’t cause any disturbances in the tank, jut hopefully allow for the breakdown of the sludge in my field. Any thoughts on this approach?   [End]
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Chris, I agree that your leach field is running slow. MOST IMPORTANT: Install risers above your septic tank, as seen in my report. Do both the input side of the tank and the output side of the tank. Your tank MUST be serviceable. Then make certain that the output side of the tank has a waste filter installed. With this work done, you can easily make regular inspections of the water level in your tank, and easily clean the septic filter annually. If you see the water level rising above the outlet pipe, then you know that your leaching lines need to be jetted out. Don’t waste mon ...
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Hello Grizz Thanks for your report. I have found it very helpful thus far. I’d love feedback on my situation if possible. We moved into a house almost three years ago (and were under the impression that the septic had been dumped prior to out moving in - not the case!) Anyway, getting the septic cleaned out was on the list of things to do when we noticed that the washing machine discharged and came through the downstairs shower and toilet (thankfully it was washing machine water!) Anyway, we had a plumber come out. He snaked the line and got out very little. We were able to get t ...
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Thank you for contributing, Griza   [End]
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”a flow regulator that per my inspector ”changes direction each time you flush” I’m sorry to be laughing out loud, but I’ve never heard of something so ridiculous. I think your source is full of BS! Send me a link on how this ”Flow Regulator” works. Demand tat your inspector supply you with links & details about his ”Flow Regulator” All septic systems work pretty much the same way. A septic tank collects all the water from the house, which is sent to the septic field through a pipe & distribution box(es). More complex systems may have pumps involved to pump the septic flow into a mo ...
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Just wanted to share my experience with my septic system and a note of thanks to Grizz for sharing some knowledge. My system has been in service for 24 years. I am the original owner as I had it installed when I constructed the house in 1990. The system has an 800 hundred gallon dual chamber tank split 2/3 black water, 1/3 effluent. There are tees on the inlet and outlet with extensions. The line out to the bed is 65 feet long. The weeping bed itself is a filter media bed with 4 runs of 15 foot long 4 inch diameter PVC weeping pipe spaced 42” apart. It is a mound design mostly chose ...
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Thanks for the reply! My septic system does not have a D-Box but instead a flow regulator that per my inspector ”changes direction each time you flush” so the only way I could get the CS into the lateral field would be to flush it...I like your idea about the blasting the lines...I don’t want to use chemicals if I don’t have to!   [End]
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The burrowing worms increase the aeration of the soil to improve water absorption. I haven’t done this yet, but my research as listed in my report proves that worms are extremely effective in the drain field. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HL-0iahk8hPwqclnajsgFnaDEq6JGNMZLaCZ14c2rps/edit# Will worms survive copper sulfate added so frequently to the field? I don’t know. I would strongly advise checking with local authorities before doing it. This stuff can’t be removed during the normal process of treating waste water. It could end up back in your drinking water. Also...putting ...
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Grizz, New to forum but I’m about to buy a house with a septic system (30 years old)...had inspection and no sign of leaks or previous backup. Recommendation from inspector was to put Copper Sulfate in every few weeks to kill any potential roots (the leech field is in an area of trees). I researched the hell out of septic as I have never owned a home with one. I am VERY curious about this whole ”worm” thing and wondered if you have successfully implemented this Spring? Still not sold dumping worms in the tank dirt and all, but I’m curious if buying burrowing worms and spreading across l ...
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Worms & septic fields are made for each other. They are used extensively in Australia, England, New Zealand and other areas of the world. Worms by themselves have totally cleared up hopelessly clogged septic fields and worms can prevent fields from clogging in the future. This is called Vermifiltration. Earthworms can be grouped into 4 main categories: Epigeic, Epigean - (above the soil surface) Endogeic (burrowing under the soil) and Anecic (deep vertical burrows) Sewage Worms (can live underwater) We want 3 varieties of worm: Sewage Worms to eat suspended solids & sludge. ...
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How does one purchase drainfield worms....I’ve read all the forum and info....but cant figure out how to ”GET” them   [End]
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Just installed effluent filter. Thanks, grizz   [End]
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Congrats on your success! IMO, it should be illegal to install septic systems without risers to the tank & to each distribution box to make it easy to service. Anytime the septic field clogs up, hydro jetting the laterals is usually VERY successful. Be sure that you have an effluent filter installed in the exit pipe from your septic tank to minimize total suspended solids getting into your drain field. Grizz   [End]
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Jetting line from septic tank outlet to about 30 ft beyond solved my clog problem. I’m going deeper when spring gets here. I used the 100ft clog hog with 2.5 gpm 3000psi gas driven pressure washer. Added rid x to inlet side of tank to assist with solid breakdown.   [End]
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1-11-15 Follow up First: Glad to see Grizz has had some success!!! After Jetting, Chemical treatment, Tank to D-Box pipe repairs and installation of an exit filter, the past 9 months have been a dream. This week threw us a curve. With freezing Temps something was bound to go wrong. Not from the cold but because I hate it. Heard a Thumping sound in the kitchen sink after dinner a few days back. Could actually feel the pipe under the sink kicking a bit. Then it just stopped as fast as it started. Next day EVERYTHING was locked up again. No water drainage. A moment of panic set in, ...
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Interesting idea.If you sent the flow through a long PVC pipe with hundreds of holes laying across the surface of the tank, then the flow might be slow enough to not stir up the silt laying on the bottom. However any idea that works is a good idea. Let us know what works for you. You are doing some valuable research! Grizz   [End]
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I have been considering ways to take aerated effluent from an added aeration tank and reintroducing it to the septic tank at a continuous slow controlled rate so’s not to create TSS. My latest thought is I could place an upside down funnel with a hose attached and positioned over my aggressive aerator, in the aeration tank. I think it would generate enough pressure to create flow. I could then add a simple irrigation valve to control the flow. I could try trickling this aerated effluent back onto the filter in the septic tank ( like back flushing ) and/or reintroduce it into the first cham ...
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These solids are like smoke in the wind. No matter what kind of filter you have, TSS will slip right through. Maybe since the first sample was only a few months after the tank had been pumped explains the clean sample. Even though the tank was murky with visible solids the sample was clear and remained so for weeks. If I add a 300 gal. tank for aeration only I was thinking of a light weight single chamber tank that I could install myself. http://www.plastic-mart.com/product/1032/300-gallon-plastic-septic-pump-tank-41319 A bigger dual chamber tank would be better, ...
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SewerRat, The problem with aerating a tank is that sludge is stirred up from the bottom creating a Septic Soup. This sludge is not what we think it is. It is composed of zillions of microscopic particles that get suspended in the soup, called TSS (Total Suspended Solids). They flow right through your filter under water pressure, and then clog up the filter. These solids take a long time to settle back to the bottom of the tank, like several weeks. These solids are like smoke in the wind. No matter what kind of filter you have, TSS will slip right through. The only thing we can do is t ...
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Thanks Grizz, That was my initial response after reading your experience. But after installing aerators to the leach lines and turning structure and having the ability to monitor it all, I figured I didn’t have much to lose. Anyway another confirmatory data point for your side. I still wish the filter had worked. Are you familiar with this style, and do you think it could have performed better? http://www.septicsolutions.com/SepticTankFilters/EffluentFilters.html#925   [End]
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SewerRat, That is smart to add a 300 gal tank at the output of your dual chamber tank for your aerator. Grizz   [End]
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I just removed the aerator from our dual chamber septic tank. It was in less than 6 mos. I noticed flow was slowing after a few mos. so I cleaned the filter and took a sample at the turning structure. It was clear. The last check revealed some solids made it past the tank filter and down to the filter I had installed just before the field. I wish the filter in the tank was more successful, but I don’t feel like cleaning filters every couple of mos. For now the tank will go back anaerobic and I’ll continue to aerate the leach line clean outs. I may add a 300 gal. tank just beyond the septi ...
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I have finally finished up my research on worms to repair & prevent drain field problems. Australia is light years ahead of the USA in using worms for septic systems. So is England. Drainfield Worms Bottom line up front - There is no question about it. Worms & septic fields are made for each other. Worms by themselves have totally cleared up hopelessly clogged septic fields and worms can prevent fields from clogging in the future. We want 3 varieties of worm: 1) Tubifex Worms for the lateral pipes, can survive under water, called sewage worms, and eats the suspended solids, sludge ...
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{\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252 {\fonttbl\f0\fswiss\fcharset0 Helvetica;} {\colortbl;\red255\green255\blue255;\red0\green0\blue0;\red255\green255\blue255;} \deftab720 \pard\pardeftab720\qc\partightenfactor0 \f0\fs22 \cf2 \cb3 \expnd0\expndtw0\kerning0 \outl0\strokewidth0 \strokec2 Grizz, I’m not big on sharing my septic treater as it has been a bit of a nightmare. They brought out the county inspector against my wishes, and they left me in limbo after a soil test in the spring which it took them all summer to reply. It was a mistake to contact them in the first place as I believe in my re ...
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MaineGuy, 1) The usual method to prevent smelly gasses is to intall a P-Trap: http://www.wlgary.com/purposeful-plumbing-what-is-a-p-trap/ 2) Each state has a published frost line. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frost_line If you live in Maine, then the frost line is typically 4 to 6 ft below grade. http://www.decks.com/deckbuilding/Deck_Footing_Frost_Depth_Map You can protect your pipes from freezing by placing 4 inches of Styrofoam board over the top of your pipes & dry wells. You could also replace your overflow pipe with a low profile infil ...
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Hi All, Just looking to get an opinion. This past spring I installed 2 dry wells in series with an overflow pipe to divert my water softener, dishwasher and washing machine gray water. The system has been working quite well. Only once or twice did water drain from the over flow pipe into my back yard down hill during heavy rains and lots of laundry. It’s somewhat smelly. Not like septic but it is gray water after all. One of the the drainage pipes exits from the basement. This pipe has the drain hoses from the dishwasher and water softener going into it. What I sometimes experience ...
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dmfolis, Here is the link to your other messages:   http://curezone.com/forums/fm.asp?i=2209510#i Many thanks for your report! What was the name & phone # of your service and does he have an internet link. Others may want to call on him. His price sounds reasonable for the work that he did. I just LOVE your lint filter. Your stainless steel screen filter is far better than what I have in my lint filter. Mine is a nylon sock that is difficult to clean. http://environmentalenhancements.com/Lint-LUV-R-about-luv-r.html I suggest adding worms to your field in th ...
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Grizz, just finished with our septic treatment. Services included installing a riser above the tank exit port, installing a filter, marking the field, digging the distro box, pumping the tank, jetting the laterals, adding a biological, then terra lifting. Cost for above was $2500 including permits. The jetting didn’t yield any substantial obstructions. Hopefully it will get my field back in shape. Btw I put in a washing machine lint filter called the lint luv-r from a company out of canada. It looks like a whole house water filter with a permanent mesh filter. Hope this helps with your ...
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I called the septic pumping guy, and he told me that adding an aerator to *any* part of my system is completely crazy, even the dosing tank. He said that the dosing tank holds a few hundred gallons, and when the siphon runs, it pulls out 90 gallons from the very center, where it’s clear liquid. According to him, solids should be able to settle out in every part of the system, including the dosing tank. Even though it’s been less than three years since he last pumped out the system, I’m going to have him clean it out and start fresh, with no disruptive agitation. As for adding more vent ...
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Philo, Sorry to disagree with your plumber, but the 2nd chamber in your dual chamber tank is designed to accumulate sludge & a scum layer. By aerating this chamber, all of that sludge & scum will be mixed into septic soup and sent into your dosing tank and then out into your septic field. See this diagram:   [End]
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During the first test of the field piping, the water didn’t even make it to the far end, so we added a vent pipe to the surface at the far end to allow the air in the pipes to be pushed out of the way by the incoming rush of water. So, between dosings, the top of the field is covered with air-filled perforated pipes (PVC with holes drilled in it), providing oxygen. And, I actually did have our plumber add an aerator, but it’s in the second chamber of the main tank. According to him, it’s best to have the first chamber free of aerator agitation for settling out solids. During pump outs, I’v ...
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Philo, That is most interesting! I haven’t heard of this method before-Here is how it works http://www.siphons.com/how-siphons-work.html http://www.siphons.com/siphon-installation.html Brilliant concept! This really allows the field to rest in between the periodic batches of the the septic fluid.   [End]
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We greatly expanded our house some years ago and had to install a whole new septic system. Ours is the first system in the county with an auto-siphon dosing tank, which supposedly prevents field clogging. The dosing tank is connected to the main tank through a plastic filter that won’t allow anything bigger than a quarter inch to pass through (the filter needs to be pulled out and hosed off several times per year.) When the dosing tank fills up, a bell siphon automatically dumps 100 gallons of effluent out over the entire field (when the system was being installed, we tested and configured ...
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dmz, See this diagram for a dual chamber tank. A small amount of sludge & scum is normal in the 2nd chamber: http://www.kingcounty.gov/healthservices/health/ehs/wastewater/owners/works.aspx PS) My doc file on septic problems is FINALLY finished: http://tinyurl.com/Septic-Solutions What is the latest situation with your tank? Grizz   [End]
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I’ve just added these quotes from a septic plumbers to our file, in case your plumber plays dumb or doesn’t want to do the hydro blasting: http://tinyurl.com/Septic-Solutions This was an excellent discussion between septic plumbers. Especially the part of Septic Installers complaining to the state about lost revenue from guys cleaning sludge from the lateral pipes in the septic field: txshriner said: “Ive been cleaning drain fields for several years with extremely good success, actually with too much success! i did this with the knowledge of the local health department and eve ...
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Dave, The septic plumbers typically offer the option of a 50 gallon drum of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide dumped into the laterals after the hydro blasting procedure for soil rehab. I suspect that your laterals are just clogged up with years of solids, like mine were, and as shown in my videos at the wrap up. If you have trees in the area, then tree roots as well. Best to you, Grizz   [End]
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I think he meant drain field trenches because our system is about 24 years old. He said he found three trenches in the system field, and that trenches actually provided more surface area than a comparable leach field. Once the lines are clear the key has to be rehabbing the soil and the filters. Water softener will be diverted, washing machine diverting is illegal here so it has to stay. I’m putting a lint filter on the washer. I’m considering adding worms (the ”trifecta” you described) to aid the soil rejuvenation after this is completed, as long as the ground isn’t frozen by then. I ...
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”a trench system in place.” I don’t understand your term ”Trench System.”. Are you saying you have the ”Infiltrator Chamber System?” As seen in this article: https://www.thenaturalhome.com/infiltrator.htm I am only aware of the 4 inch PVC perforated pipes & the Infiltrator Chamber. See this video for a clogged up infiltrator chamber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PidqAofLQXMhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PidqAofLQXM Start at 13 minutes. It is impossible to believe that the chambers were packed with solid sludge for 50 ft! No amount of hydro blasting would have cleaned out ...
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I had a visit from the septic company and the county health administrator. He approved a terralift and jetting and gave me a year to rehab the field or he will require replacement of the system. My plans show a leachfield but I actually have a trench system in place. They will install risers over the tank and dig up the distro box, which I will prob put a riser on if they won’t. They will jet and apply an oxygenation solution to the trenches. They will install an effluent filter, and terralift the soil. Depending on the results i will decide if septic seep or anything else would need appl ...
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About Terralift. I really don’t see how Terralift is going to repair the main problem of laterals FILLED with sludge. The only thing that has proven effective in my case & in cases shown in my videos is hydro-blasting the laterals. http://tinyurl.com/Septic-Solutions Grizz   [End]
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Of course everything we do with a septic system must be done according to local codes, and the codes are different in every state. So always check with your local laws before working on a septic system. This is the main document that goes with this forum: http://tinyurl.com/Septic-Solutions Where the disclaimer says: ========================== ** It is the responsibility of the reader to follow all local rules and ordinances when applying information found in this document. ** WARNING: Working on septic tanks & D-Boxes can be deadly or hazardous. Dangerous gases can collec ...
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I only posted so people realize that not in every state you can do this. We also have wells and you have to have laws so you don’t contaminate your neighbors well. I have a friend who has a farm in Missouri and I am sure they can do what they want, since they have hundreds of acres. To throw politics in your answer was not very mature. We are also talking about keeping people safe. It is the same with testing well water, since we have a lot of ledge you can have radon in your water and certain area’s have high arsenic. So when people buy a house the water get tested. Yes a failed sept ...
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I am totally against aerating the septic tank, unless it is a 3 chamber tank that is designed for aeration. IMO, Aerate the D-Box is A-OK. Speed levelers can be retrofitted to your D-Box. DISTRIBUTION BOX FLOW EQUALIZER:   [End]
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Stopping the leaks hasn’t helped as much as I would have hoped. We have had heavy rains for the past two weeks so everything is still wet. We are having another company check things tommorow. I think our d box may be off balance. Have you heard of a speed leveler or a dial-a-flow? I read our county ordinance and terralift and jetting are considered repairs and therefore need a permit. The first company that condemned our drain field said the county would only allow aeration for one year then require a replacement system (mound) at 3K for the aeration then 25k for the mound at our own r ...
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Dave, 1) do you have to dig out another point besides the d-box? ++ NO. The D-Box gets into all of the laterals. 2) Where does the sludge go? It is forced out into the D-Box riser. ++ A neighboring farmer used a sump pump to send the sludge out into a nearby corn field. You could hire a Septic Plumber to pump the sludge into his pump truck. You have REALLY a great business opportunity if no one in your area does hydro blasting septic laterals. Grizz   [End]
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According to the plans I have, the system has a single distribution box. I discovered a shower faucet in my daughters bathroom that was dripping big time that I was able to fix (prob 15-20 gal/day!) that may help the wet drain field. For jetting the laterals, do you have to dig out another point besides the d-box? The video I saw only shows them at the d-box but if their is significant sludge where could it go, back to the tank to pump out? I checked out the clog hog and it seems decent for a do it yourselfer. What do you think? Thanks again, -Dave   [End]
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No worms in the tank, they need to breath, worms are only useful to aerate the soil. The tank still needs to be pumped out every 5 years or so depending on your family size. Pump the tank when the sludge level gets too high. Another reason you need risers on your tank. http://www.septicsolutions.net/store/risers_lids.htm Is you land flat or on a slope? If it is flat, then you have only one D-Box that you can dig up and add a riser to. Then you can rent a pressure pump and jet your own laterals. If your land is on a slope, then you have multiple D-Boxes, at each lateral. If they ...
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Thanks again for providing the world with what you have discovered on septics. I have been frustrated so far by our local providers. They are not open to investigating causes of the failure, only sticking rods in the ground and saying, ”yeah, it’s saturated everywhere, you need a new system”. Our county prohibits terra lift or any ground aeration, and I have yet to find anyone that does hydro jetting services. I have no risers at all and I’m hesitant to have them put in if they are going to force me to replace the system and destroy it all anyway. My plan would be hydro jetting, installi ...
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dmfollis, IMO, septic systems are simply a cruel money grabbing scam/fraud from one end to the other. They are designed & built to be un-serviceable & to provide MAX revenue to the industry. EVERY septic system should be designed with risers above the septic tank, and a riser above each D-Box. Single chamber tanks should NEVER have been made legal. Of course the local contractor wants TOP DOLLAR to install a new system, which will also be unserviceable & prone to failure. Hydro jetting is my best advice. You should watch the Youtube Videos of hydro-jetting to see how effective it ...
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Thank u Grizz for all your hard work on this subject, you have helped so many. My field system has failed with liquid coming off the top (no backup yet). Local contractor wants 25k to replace! Do u think hydro jetting (if it’s legal here) followed by worms could work or any other advice? Thanks again, -dave   [End]
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Animal, IMO, unfortunately, there is nothing you can do with a woman in this situation. It is in her genes to immediately move out and get a new NEST. Her nest is being threatened and she wants a ”Pill” to fix it immediately if not sooner. Just nod your head and say uh huh. Then tell her to be prepared to use a Porta-Potty in the back yard, just in case, while running out of the house to escape a frying pan being hurled at you. I have been through it all, as you saw in my Document. You will be destined to be screwing with your septic system forever until you put in the final fi ...
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Thanks Grizz. I’ll see what I can do rather than use a hose and a funnel. Fingers crossed the peroxide makes some difference as my wife is not convinced and I’m getting a whole host of sh!t from her at the moment....   [End]
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Yes, that will work to get chemicals to the Dbox. BEWARE & be very careful - do not get it on your skin. I would rather see you attach a hose bib to a bucket, and pour the chemical into the bucket. Using a funnel on a hose is just asking for trouble. Grizz   [End]
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Been a while and due to the bed drying out over summer I’ve not got around to doing anything as it’s all been working and the wife is complaining on other things rather than the septic.... HOWEVER - we had a couple of days of heavy downpour and their was a smell one morning which started her off again. I’ve ordered 5 gallons of 35% Hydrogen Peroxide that I pick up on Friday afternoon. I can’t get/find the Dbox but I notice on the septic seep site they mention using a hose with a funnel to distribute their product. Can I do the same with the peroxide rather than building an elbow ...
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This closure has been a long time coming. The best answers to a clogged up septic field are nearly imposiible to find. There is propaganda everywhere to sell us one product after another. Septic plumbers want to sell an EXPENSIVE new drain field.  My best advice today is to start by adding risers to the tank & all of the D-Boxes, pump out the septic tanks & then hydro blast all of the laterals. Don't waste time & money on chemicals. As you watch the videos I have provided in the report below, you will see why chemicals are FUTILE to correct a failing septic fi ...
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Regarding attempts to cure septic field ils: I’m am no ”tree hugger” but a logical sequence of attempting to rectify the problem would logically first start with a biological approach (enzymes, worms, etc.) If those attempts at a cure do fail, THEN pull out the hydrogen peroxide and other high-powered chemicals. Attempts to rectify the problem by using chemicals and then ”critters” would be a disaster.   [End]
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aggadt, My best suggestion is to skip over all the trials & tribulation and go for the FINAL FIX up front. 1) Add risers to both ends of your septic 2) Add a riser above each Dbox 3) Get your septic plumber to drain the tank 4) Pressure Hydro Blast your lateral lines. Solids fill up the laterals. Your plumber will then pump the gunk out of your d-boxes. 5) THEN add the peroxide to your D-Box. The plumbers typically add a 50 gal drum of peroxide after pressure blasting the laterals. Anything less and you will be endlessly hassled with your septic system. While you are at ...
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We don’t know where our d-box is, and the tank is full over the exit pipe. We do have a vent pipe at the end of the field...Would it work if we put hydrogen peroxide in there to start or not since it’s a gravity field?   [End]
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Septic tank should be nice to as this contain all waste water and other wastes which comes with water in it and for health and other point of view this should be proper and for getting it proper there should be proper maintenance and cleaning between 2 to 5 years interval so that it works properly.   [End]
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The only thing that worked for me (and is still working) was to hydro flush the laterals. I used the Clog Hog hose attached to my 2,500 PSI pressure washer. You should probably contract that out to a septic plumber so he can pump away all the gunk that comes flying out of those laterals into your D-Box. My laterals were literally all clogged up and there was no way that any amount of chemicals added to the drainfield could have helped. After they have been hydroblasted, it might be worthwhile adding chemicals to the lechfield for the biomat. But I think all you need is the hydr ...
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i have a tank about thirty years old and with just a good rain the drain fields back up and back fill the tank. i took top off distribution box and poured a container of roebic brand emergency repair down each of the three drain field line. i dont anticipate success so what do you recomend and exactly how much do i put down each line. also should i try to flush the lines after applying the solution. thanks so much !   [End]
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”http://www.doityourself.com/forum/wells-sump-pumps-septic-sewage-systems/524885-sodium-percarbonate-hydrogen-peroxide-quot-dose-quot-for-seepage-pit” Does not work. there is usually a #number following seepage-pit. What is the number? Enclose the proper link in quotes like I did, and you can post it in the message here. Grizz   [End]
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need an answer also   [End]
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it is thread 524885-sodium-percarbonate-hydrogen-peroxide-quot-dose-quot-for-seepage-pit not 446728... Please post this link. Thanks.   [End]
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Here it is: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/wells-sump-pumps-septic-sewage-systems/446728-septic-tank-seepage-pit-help-advice.html#post2106808 Grizz   [End]
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Forum: do it yourself Thread: Sodium percarbonate/Hydrogen peroxide ”dose” for seepage pit Moderator: lawrosa   [End]
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Which forum are you referring to? Grizz   [End]
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Grizz, I’m having success with aeration and want to add a link to the other forum where my setup, plan, and results are posted. How do I do that? Thanks for your help.   [End]
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I think adding some aerobic bacteria to your pump tank is a good idea, Grizz   [End]
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I received the Sepaerator last week, shipping was pretty fast from Septic Solutions. I have not have any time to put it in until this evening. Seems to be pretty well built. Today I just did a temporary install. Drilled a hole through my pump tank riser about 3 inches below the surface and pulled the air hose through and then just put the pump under my deck. I’ll bury the hose and do something permanent for power when I have a couple of hours. I just wanted to get the aeration going. FYI the aerator with the weight on the bottom is about 15 inches tall. My pump tank was just about ...
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Thanks, here’s another experiment. http://curezone.org/ig/i_edit.asp?i=71768   [End]
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Yes. Grizz   [End]
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Ok...is 27% close enough?   [End]
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Ok... so I just purchased the Sepaerator. Should get it to install this weekend. Praying for good results. Just a cost decision between sepaerator and septicair aid. Got more for less. I thought about rolling my own per lawrosa’s recommendation but liked the idea of a maintenance free aerator. Probably just a pipe dream, but it sure would be nice to not have to take that nasty thing out and wipe it down. JF   [End]
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It does for a few days. However once the water is aerated, the stink goes away. Aerating a septic tank creates more serious problems. We don’t advocate aerating the septic tank because the aeration stirs up the sludge and sends it out to the septic field to clog up the field. ncfishers is looking into a special case of aerating his pump tank which is different. Grizz   [End]
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When you aerate into the tank though, doesn’t that push a whole bunch of stinky air out in to the atmosphere and stink the place up real bad ?   [End]
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JF, If you can make an aerator work in your pump tank then that is ideal. Your pump tank must have a float level to turn on the pump, so I imagine that you can alter the float level is required to keep more water in the tank. Right? How big is the pump tank? Grizz   [End]
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I don’t think I have a D-box. I talked to the local septic supply guy and he said most don’t in this county. I haven’t found yet where it splits from 1 pipe to 4 pipes, so when I find that I should know. Those pipes are very deep. The drawing indicates that they all connect serially. Not sure yet. Will let you guys know when I make some progress. I appreciate any feedback/input. JF   [End]
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No it is better in your pump tank if you can make it work there. The 2nd chamber of your septic tank will accumulate some sludge that was not trapped into the 1st chamber, and all of that sludge will enter your septic field when it is stirred up by an aerator. I don’t like aeration unless it is in the D Box to directly aerate what goes into the laterals. All sludge should be contained within the septic tank and not be stirred up to be sent to the field. Grizz   [End]
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hey Grizz, My thought was to put the aerator in the pump tank. Do you think it is better in the second chamber of the main tank? JF   [End]
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The buckets were 4 gallons each and I slowly poured them into an empty 5 gal bucket to pour down the tank exit pipe at about 1 gallon at a time. I poured in all of liquid. Grizz   [End]
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Oh...ok...Just to be clear, I want to do this right the first time. Were the buckets 4 gallons each or one gallon each? And...did you install the 10 gallons all at once or split it up with time in between? I was thinking of running a hose down my distribution lines and using a funnel to insure it gets all the way down but if I use 10 gallons right into the Dbox it should disperse evenly I would think...Thoughts?   [End]
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Your aerator should work if it is placed on the output side of your dual chamber septic tank. An aerator will not work on a single chamber tank. All it does in a single chamber tank is to stir up the sludge and send it out to your septic field. The concrete cone is the output baffle to prevent the scum from getting into your leach field. Grizz   [End]
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So, I got my input and output riser panels installed on my tank yesterday. My tank looks like an interesting design, has a concrete divider and then some type of concrete ”cone” that the output pipe is inside of. I started digging around my leach field, looks like at the head of each line there is a ball valve so I can turn off individual lines. Might give me some interesting options for restoration. Going to go ahead and buy an SepticAir Aid aerator to install next Saturday. Hoping that works. JF   [End]
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I installed the peroxide from 4 gallon buckets I bought from the pool supply store. The pool supply store had the best prices for 30% peroxide about $15 per gallon. I used 10 gallons and it worked. Grizz   [End]
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Hi Grizz, I'm pretty sure I know what I'm going to find. When I had the tank and Dbox pumped last year all kinds of black water backwashed out of the laterals. After applying my one and only application of sodium percarbonate the field drained normally until this winter. Based on your manifesto I know I should not keep reapplying the sodium percarbonate. How much did your plumber charge you for that 50 gallons of hydrogent peroxide?   [End]
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Main Guy, I would hold off on the chemicals until you jet out your laterals. The clumpy junk that came out of my lateral was unbelievable. Also the youtube videos on hydro=jetting will give us an idea of what is down there. Best to you, Grizz Grizz   [End]
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Your local well drilling company would know where your water table is. You might give them a call. Grizz   [End]
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Hey Grizz, I’m not sure... I’m going to do some digging tomorrow to see if I can get a better understanding. But I don’t think water flows between the panels... unless they are not draining. There is a 2 inch pipe running through the top of each of the panels and I believe it just drips/sprays down into each panel from there. Also, there isn’t much room in the panels, so I would have to get a pretty small aerator. I’ll report back tomorrow when I know a bit more. Side note, I called the sludgehammer people... that thing is pretty expensive. They also mentioned something that I ...
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Hi Grizz, Sorry to hear you had to hire a plumber to help you with your leach field rejuvination. I'm at the point where my field is clogged again. Fortunately for me the overflo is sitting on top of the hastily filled hole for the d-box in my woods from last November (ground almost totally frozen) and is not backing up in the house. My septic guy is coming on Tuesday. My Clog Hog arrived today. I have a 2700psi pressure washer. My septic guy will hang with me and pump out the water from the Dbox while I jet the lines. I searched all the threads for hydrogen pero ...
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Very impressive. You have done a lot of nice work! Grizz   [End]
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