Re: Iodoral & Nasal Polyps

hi grizz,

when i first began making CS all of the info available to me on the internet was telling me that yellow silver was the right concentration that worked best. that seems to have been rejected without question in favor of the clear EIS/CS everyone talks about today. needless to say, i smell a big fat rat.

a little background.

making silver water with electricity is easy. the biggest problem is having the pure silver to do it with. buy silver NOW. not because of the price or any future increase thereof but simply this - it wont be available to you at any price. get some. its essential emergency medicine.

the idea is that you suspend pure silver (three nines or greater) in pure distilled water (less than 1ppm TDS is ideal) and hook up juice to it.

i will tell you a secret right now. any silver water made with any silver using any water and electrical source will work. if you use enough of it, it will work. you could take two pieces of your tea service (sterling 975), hook each piece up to one wire on a drop cord, suspend them in a toilet bowl and plug the other side in the wall and make effective medicine. we can all do better than that, now cant we?

i like the bars because they reach down further into the water than the rounds and are just easier to use. cut the rectangle lengthways, have two half ounce electrodes, get a glass quart jar with a plastic lid, cut holes for a pressure fit of your diodes, fill as full as possible with walmart distilled water and youre set. find a high voltage converter and shoot for, according to legend, 30v. radio shack once sold a switchable 15/30v converter and i got one of those. however, snapping 9v batteries together in a series will work well. you wont be using many amps so they last for a few batches. get rechargeables or a converter or pay a lot more. four of them in a series gives you 36v while only three gives you 27v. the extra batter in the four cell unit makes better silver and makes it faster. definitely worth it. luckily, HP used 30v with their printers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-HP-printer-AC-Adapter-Power-Supply-Model-C2175A-OP-30V-400mA-/221948537540?hash=item33ad29eac4:g:v2UAAOSwg8FVAnGE

so, to make yellow silver you just cook it till you get a good hint of yellow in the water. it will get more pronounced after it sits around for a few days. clear silver, which is the current vogue (and which i have had fail on me, but thats another story) will get a yellow tinge over time.

what makes it yellow? well, when the power is on and the silver is leaving the heard an ion or atom at a time, it slowly disperses in the water. this is why it is good to be able to stir as you make it. in gallon jugs i suggest a fish tank aerator. i dont like magnetic stirrers though some people swear by them. in the above setup, an extra hole in the lid to stick a plastic chopstick or something down in and stir it works great.

the more concentrated the silver particles become in the water the more they contact one another and join to form larger particles. the properties of silver makes for different colors refracted according to the size. yellow is the first color you see and it tells you your ions and colloids are as concentrated as you need them to be. you can keep going until you reach a deep red color. its really weird stuff. i accidentally made some and ended up using it in a hot bath. good idea, btw. with hydrogen peroxide. oh yea. koolaids here wearin a smile.

so, do the above making sure the electrodes get cleaned as you cook (the silver comes off the positive side), make sure they dont touch (1.5 inches is a good gap between them), and keep stirred so the cooking speed goes up slowly and can tell when you reach your concentration goal. watch out for bridging which might occur if not stirred or cleaned often enough. they short out your electricity.

with the yellow silver method there is no need for the tyndal effect using a laser or other light source. it is fun though so look it up and read about it.

but first, get to your local coin shop asap and see if they have any one ounce bars for spot plus. you could go with a ten ounce bar and cut that in half. more than a lifetime supply, for the whole block.

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