Their major natural predators are:
* FROGS. They require: ponds & steams with access. Low dense vegetation or cover to lay-up in during the day (they are mainly nocturnal). Their predators are: owls, seagulls, grass snakes, cats, crows, weasels, stoats, foxes, rats, hedgehogs, pike etc. They hibernate so must have: hole in the ground under tree or rocks, tree root, old log, stone wall, compost heap etc. In a very good hibernation location, frogs, newts, toads, lizards and snakes may overwinter together. Large frogs eat large slugs & snails; smaller eat smaller. They eat snail shells too. Slugs are a very high proportion of diet. They can live for 10 years.
* SONG THRUSHES, MISTLE THRUSHES AND REDWINGS. They require: Food: As well as slugs & snails which they eat all year, worms early in the year, caterpillars in summer, fruit & berries in Autumn & Winter. For nesting: dense hedges & bushes. Not too many predators: cats, magpies etc. It is believed their numbers have been greatly reduced by slug pellets & from competition with the greatly increased number of blackbirds.
* GROUND BEETLES. Energetic hunters of slugs and other creatures. Breed more slowly than slugs & can't keep up with sudden slug increases. They require Summer nesting sites: stones or logs etc. Many species are active for only a few weeks in Spring & Summer before entering a resting period before laying eggs in Autumn. Require cover while hunting: under plants, debris, mulches, etc. Most species prefer moist shady conditions & feed mainly at night. A few are active in the day & prefer more open ground. Require overwinter sites: under logs, tree bark, in the soil or in a patch of rough grass. Most tend to move to woodland or hedgerows in the Winter. In Spring & Summer, ground beetles eat many eggs & young slugs. To encourage beetles, it is possible to construct the following "Pitfall plot":
* HEDGEHOGS. They require: Cover, hedges, undisturbed leaves, or brushwood. No major roads nearby or solid wall protection. They eat large numbers of slugs and small snails, also beetles but on balance do more good than harm. They require hibernation sites: piles of leaves or brushwood or hibernation boxes under sheds etc.
* COMMON SHREW. They require: Cover, especially long rough grass. Undisturbed site for nest, especially a hole or burrow in the ground. Their predators are cats, owls, dogs, weasels & crows. Their diet consists of earthworms, beetles, spiders, woodlice & many slugs & snails.They remove the slime from slugs first. They hunt especially at dusk, night & dawn.
* PARASITIC NEMATODE. Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita. Commercially available. See links page for suppliers. Should stop slugs feeding quickly. Slugs die within a week, underground. Sprays containing the nematode are effective for 6 weeks after spraying in wet or dry conditions and down to at least 5ºC. Nematodes do not like manure. Further generations emerge from the dead slug bodies. Apply before planting or sowing a valuable crop.
* MARSH FLIES. Tentancera elata & Eurthycera cribata. parasites of snails & slugs. Each fly larva may kill 9 to 25 snails or slugs by burrowing. They require a wildlife pond & wild flowers.
* SLOW WORMS. They require: an undisturbed spot, a compost heap is ideal. Vegetation, a sunny spot: woodland clearing, old ivy covered wall, hedge bank, railway embankment, corrugated iron sheet laid on the ground etc. Eat especially small white slugs, also other slugs & some snails. They are more effective after rain. They can live 30 years.
* CENTIPEDES. They require darkness, moisture, protection by plants, debris, stones, etc. Wholely carnivorous> Eat insects, worms & many slugs & snails. They require not too much predator activity by hedgehogs & birds. Their main escape is their fast speed of movement.
* COMMON NEWT. They require: Pond without predatory fish, cover to lay up in the day time. A good spot to hibernate in: hole in the ground, under rocks etc. Not too many newt predators: see frog predators.
* BACILLUS THURUNGIENSIS. A bacteria which causes paralysis of insect gut muscles and subsequent death. Some strains parasitise slugs. May become commercially available. Easily sprayed on plants to infect slugs.
* OTHER PREDATORS OF SLUGS & SNAILS. -Though only a small part of their diet- include: rooks, jackdaws, jays, magpies, starlings, blackbirds (eat snails in winter), fieldfare, gulls, owls, robins, toads (they were once commonly kept in greenhouses to control slugs & snails), moles, common lizard, foxes, mice, rats, testacellid carnivorous slugs (identified by a small shell at hind end of body. They hunt underground. Are not very common) and glow worms (eat a few small snails).

Introduce domestic predators
* DUCKS. Especially Indian runner (which can't swallow frogs & toads, Harlequin, Kharki Campbell have proved successful. Types of duck which naturally have a low vegetable diet, or are natural mollusc feeders. They should at first be carefully observed to ensure they are eating slugs and snails and not damaging garden plants. Strawberries will need to be netted. They may be introduced into the garden only for short periods when there are slugs about, or given a very extensive range to forage in. They should be allowed access to their prefered green foods (if any) at all times; and not at the same time allowed to feed in deep water, where they will prefer to forage.
* HENS. Small breeds only. Large strong hens are very destructive - lumps of vegetation go flying. They can be trained to come when called to strategically placed pieces of carpet or wood, to eat hiding slugs & snails & woodlice. When confined, they will clear the ground of slugs & snails & of most vegetation! Maybe introduced into gardens for short periods or given very extensive range. Some plants such as soft fruit or lettuce must be protected.

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Encourage natural predators

* Slugs: these are pretty unpopular, however, not all species are a threat. Some of those victimised by gardeners, such as the great grey slug, eat other plant-munching species. Let these live and you'll maintain balance naturally. Some species of slug also help the garden by recycling nutrients into the soil. If you have pets, species such as the European black slug will eat dog and cat faeces and turn it into fertiliser.
* Slugs and snails: avoid using slug pellets and other pesticides in your garden. These harm the frogs, birds and hedgehogs that are natural slug and snail predators. Instead, enlist their help in keeping pests under control. Encourage them to visit your garden by providing food and shelter.
* Slugs: a number of invertebrates such as glow worm larvae prey on slugs. Ground and rove beetles eat both slug eggs and the adults. These beetles, along with centipedes that also eat slugs, prefer damp shady areas so you can encourage them by leaving logs and stones undisturbed. Build a rockery or Make a wood pile to attract these species to your garden.

* Slugs and snails: try using barriers beside vulnerable plants. Slugs and snails appear to dislike the acidic solution given off as pine needles decompose. Fine grit may also deter them. Success varies!
* Slugs and snails: grow plants that are less slug and snail friendly, for example, sea holly, lavender, geraniums, heathers and fuchsias.
* Slugs and snails: put a cloche — a clear plastic drinks bottle with the bottom cut off will do — over young plants at night to protect them.

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http://www.eartheasy.com/grow_nat_slug_cntrl.htm



Slugs are in every garden, and cause more damage than most garden invaders. Commercial slug killers are available, but they can be toxic to birds and other wildlife, and are less effective after rain, when slugs are most active.

Here are a few alternative natural, non-toxic methods of slug control:



• Watering Schedule
Far and away the best course of action against slugs in your garden is a simple adjustment in the watering schedule. Slugs are most active at night and are most efficient in damp conditions. Avoid watering your garden in the evening if you have a slug problem. Water in the morning - the surface soil will be dry by evening. Studies show this can reduce slug damage by 80%.

• Beer
Slugs are attracted to beer. Set a small amount of beer in a shallow wide jar buried in the soil up to its neck. Slugs will crawl in and drown. Take the jar lid and prop it up with a small stick so rain won't dilute the beer. Leave space for slugs to enter the trap.

• Seaweed
If you have access to seaweed, it's well worth the effort to gather. Seaweed is not only a good soil amendment for the garden, it's a natural repellent for slugs. Mulch with seaweed around the base of plants or perimeter of bed. Pile it on 3" to 4" thick - when it dries it will shrink to just an inch or so deep. Seaweed is salty and slugs avoid salt. Push the seaweed away from plant stems so it's not in direct contact. During hot weather, seaweed will dry and become very rough which also deters the slugs.

• Copper
Small strips of copper can be placed around flower pots or raised beds as obstructions for slugs to crawl over. Cut 2" strips of thin copper and wrap around the lower part of flower pots, like a ribbon. Or set the strips in the soil on edge, making a "fence" for the slugs to climb. Check to make sure no vegetation hangs over the copper which might provide a 'bridge' for the slugs. Copper barriers also work well around wood barrels used as planters.

• Diatomaceous Earth
Diatomaceous earth is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied pests, causing them to dehydrate. A powdery granular material, it can be sprinkled around garden beds or individual plants, and can be mixed with water to make a foliar spray.
Diatomaceous earth is less effective when wet, so use during dry weather. Wear protective gear when applying, as it can irritate eyes and lungs. Be sure to buy natural or agricultural grade diatomaceous earth, not pool grade which has smoother edges and is far less effective. Available in garden centers; it is fairly expensive.

• Lava Rock
Like diatomaceous earth, the abrasive surface of lava rock will be avoided by slugs. Lava rock can be used as a barrier around plantings, but should be left mostly above soil level, otherwise dirt or vegetation soon forms a bridge for slugs to cross.

• Salt
If all else fails, go out at night with the salt shaker and a flashlight. Look at the plants which have been getting the most damage and inspect the leaves, including the undersides. Sprinkle a bit of salt on the slug and it will kill it quickly. Not particularly pleasant, but use as a last resort. (Note: some sources caution the use of salt, as it adds a toxic element to the soil. This has not been my experience, especially as very little salt is used.)

• Overturned Flowerpots, Grapefruit Halves, Board on Ground
Overturned flowerpots, with a stone placed under the rim to tilt it up a bit, will attract slugs. Leave overnight, and you'll find the slugs inside in the morning. Grapefruit halves work the same way, with the added advantage of the scent of the fruit as bait.
Another trap method, perhaps the simplest of all, is to set a wide board on the ground by the affected area. Slugs will hide under the board by day. Simply flip the board over during the day to reveal the culprits. Black plastic sheeting also works the same way.

• Garlic-based slug repellents
Laboratory tests at the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne (UK) revealed that a highly refined garlic product (ECOguard produced by ECOspray Ltd, a British company that makes organic pesticides) was an effective slug killer. Look for garlic-based slug deterrents which will be emerging under various brand names, as well as ECOguard.

• Coffee grounds; new caffeine-based slug/snail poisons
Coffee grounds scattered on top of the soil will deter slugs. The horticultural side effects of using strong grounds such as espresso on the garden, however, are less certain. When using coffee grouds, moderation is advised.
A study in June 2002 reported in the journal Nature found that slugs and snails are killed when sprayed with a caffeine solution, and that spraying plants with this solution prevents slugs from eating them. The percentage of caffeine required in a spray (1 - 2%) is greater than what is found in a cup of coffee (.05 - 07%), so homemade sprays are not as effective. Look for new commercial sprays which are caffeine-based.

Escar-Go!® Slug & Snail Control
A unique blend of iron phosphate (occurs naturally in soil) and a bait that lures slugs and snails away from their hiding places.
Repeated studies have shown that slugs will eat Escar-Go! before they will eat nearby plants. As soon as they ingest even a small amount, they stop feeding and begin to die within 3 to 6 days.
Safe for use around pets and wildlife.
Price: $7.95 for 1 1/4 lbs (treats 1,250 sq ft)
buy Escar Go! slug & snail control more info





Suggestions from site visitors:
I twist a thin copper wire around the base of my tomato plants about 2" up from the ground.The ends are crossed over, but only twisted part way, just enough to stay in place. As the plant grows the copper will expand gradually. Sometimes the wire drops to the base, but it's easy to just slide it up and tighten it a bit. I've had very little slug damage to my tomatoes using this method. Glenda, NY

Mix a solution of 70-80% household ammonia with water, put this solution into a spray bottle and set the nozzle to squirt like a water pistol. I wait till it gets dark-when the slugs are most active, then with a flashlight begin squirting. The ammonia is harmless to plants but the slugs die within a couple of seconds. It took me almost two summers of doing this almost every night but now I don't have any slugs exept for a few visitors from under the neighbours fence which do not take much time to get rid of. Dennis, MB

You have never tackled the Slugs in the Pacifiv NW USA....First off they are at least 6 times bigger (notto mention the Banana Slug).

Copper wire & Foil can work as a barrier.
For High value plants they sell Plastic edging impregnated with Salt Crystals.

Fibergals Bats cut into strips works better than Pine Bark Mulch.

Also channels of water can't be crossed if you care to do some trenching.

Bear in mind the life-cycle of the slug in particular, in terms of breeding and where they lay the eggs. They are subterranean. No matter how much barrier & mulch you use they still keep coming up where they are unwanted.

Which leads to the potential use of the appropriate specie of Predatory Nematode and other IPM methods.


http://digital.library.unt.edu/permalink/meta-dc-1506:1


http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html


http://oregonstate.edu/Dept/nurspest/mollusks.htm


http://www.cababstractsplus.org/google/abstract.asp?AcNo=20033205513


http://www.leisa.info/index.php?url=global-search.tpl