Solution for Septic Field clogging L... 
grizz
11 y
18,520
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Our Message threads on Septic Tanks has paid off in spades. After rejuvenating the septic field with Sodium Percarbonate, we need a long term method to get oxygen into the septic field to prevent future clogging & slow-downs.
Instead of aerating the septic tank, which can result in serious problems ( as I have suffered), we can aerate the D-Box. Magilla reported this idea at "Do It Yourself," msg # 103.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/wells-sump-pumps-septic-sewage-systems/4467...
This gets the oxygenated water right where it is needed and when it is needed. As the water level rises out of the D-Box, aeration becomes more effective. IMO, this option is better than adding sodium percarbonate over & over because I'm afraid this may result in too much sodium in the septic field causing problems. Note below- It DOES cause serious problems. Aerating the D-Box water avoids all the problems from stirring up sludge in the tank, and adding too much sodium into the septic field. The ideal solution is to put a holding tank between the D-Box & the Septic tank, and aerate this water. But until this ideal solution, aerating the D-Box is a step in the right direction.
I will slide the 6 inch aerator sticks down through the exit pipe in my septic tank, and into the D-Box. The D-Box is usually within 25 feet of the septic tank. Photos of my septic tank exit pipe riser can be seen in my report below.
Complete details for this idea and complete report on rejuvenating our septic field with photos and a detailed report on aerating problems:
http://tinyurl.com/Septic-Solutions
Sodium Percarbonate works extremely well the first time, but WILL clog up the field is used repeatedly. It forms a "Hard Pan" in the field. See complete details here:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HL-0iahk8hPwqclnajsgFnaDEq6JGNMZLaCZ14c2r...
Grizz
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- Re: Solution for Septic Field cloggi... sciencesingalong
11 y
17,287
This is a reply to # 2,083,411Hi Grizz,
I'm very new to all this, but my septic system has failed and it sounds similar to your problems. I seem lucky in that my tank has 2 chambers and looks exactly like the diagram of a 2 chamber system you have in your google doc.
I've been pumped twice in 6 weeks. I know a LOT of solids made it in to the leach field because the baffle in my tank was deteriorating. I've had that repaired. My soil is full of clay.
The Septic Pumper already added 18 lbs of Add-Ox to my 2 leach lines. (Add-Ox is Sodium Percarbonate, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Silicate) He used a hose and air pump to blow the dry powder directly in to the leach lines from the d-box. Even after that treatment, my leach field is draining very slowly.
So far 2 different pumpers have told me:
Pumper 1 (and contractor that installs septic systems): I need a new leach field.
Pumper 2: Many of the septic systems in my neighborhood have already been converted to engineered systems. In the coming years he expects the county to only approve engineered systems. That is likely what they will require now if I go for a permit. (my leach field was installed only 6 years ago) He recommends that I divert all grey water away from the septic system and that will allow it to work for another 15 or 20 years the way it is.
-------------
Right now I am considering going the route of aeration, a larger Sodium Percarbonate treatment and diverting all grey water to a separate system.
I am going to order a 50lbs bag of Sodium Percarbonate from Soap Goods
http://www.soapgoods.com/Sodium-Percarbonate-p-1001.html
I learned about Septic Air Aid from your google doc. I've talked to Artie today and he is convincing. But, I couldn't tell from your notes if you found Artie to be con-ing you or if it was simple a mistake that you were installing the aerator in a single chamber septic tank.
I'd love to know your feeling about whether aeration may be the right path for me or not.
Thanks. (and yes, I'm not taking any one persons advice, but instead asking around for advice from everyone that I can)
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- Re: Solution for Septic Field cloggi... sciencesingalong
11 y
17,355
MoreThis is a reply to # 2,084,721Oh, and as far as using the liquid Lime-Sulfur mix. When should I consider using it? Once the Sodium Percarbonate has restored the proper drainage? Immediately after I finish the multi day treatment with Sodium Percarbonate?
- Re: Solution for Septic Field cloggi... grizz
11 y
17,710
This is a reply to # 2,084,722Here are my confirmed opinions.
There are TWO major reasons why the septic field clogs up:
1) The "Biomat" has overgrown with sludge. Oxygen is required to clear this condition.
2) Your washing machine, soaps and salt your family uses sends SODIUM into the septic field causing "HardPan" that is stopping the water flow. This condition requires the Septic Seep Formula
The Hardpan is by far the worst condition. I have seen septic systems last for 20+ years with the biomat never being serviced.
@@He recommends that I divert all grey water away from the septic system and that will allow it to work for another 15 or 20 years the way it is.
Absolutely do this ASAP to stop the sodium from getting into your leach field. He is RIGHT ON.Do you have a water softener? Make sure it goes into your grey water.
@@Right now I am considering going the route of aeration, a larger Sodium Percarbonate treatment and diverting all grey water to a separate system.
I have mixed feelings about aerating a dual chamber tank. Here is my opinion. It may work conditionally. Artie is a super salesman & has a fantastic web site. Here are the facts. The aerator will stir up the scum & sludge into Septic Soup. This septic soup will flow out of your chamber.
If the aerator is in the input chamber, then all the scum & solids will end up in your output chamber, and the output chamber becomes the "Settling Tank." Since you are starting with a freshly pumped tank, all new solids & scum will go into your output chamber, and hopefully settle down.
If the aerator is in the output chamber, then all the soup goes into your septic field to clog it up. Which chamber does Artie advise you to use for his aerator?
Artie has a stick aerator kit that is excellent for a D-Box. IMO, there is a 3rd option that I think is superior. Add a riser to your D-Box and then Aerate the D-Box instead of your septic tank. This gets the aeration right where it is needed the most and when it is most needed. It is most needed when the water level starts to rise and when toilets send all that water into the D-Box.
I think you will have a perfect and long lasting system by using sodium percarbonate to blast away the biomat, then a few weeks later use the septic seep recipe to remove the Hardpan, install a Greywater system to prevent the hardpan from forming again, and aerating your D-Box. The sodium left behind by the sodium percarbonate contributes to the hardpan, so it can't be used too many times without problems.
My experiments with effluent water in mason jars prove that if the septic tank water is UNDISTURBED in any way, the effluent becomes amazingly clear. So look at your input baffle. If you have a vertical 4 inch pipe as a baffle, then the BLAST of water from the toilet will shoot down into your sludge to stir it up. Hang a plastic plate 12 inches below the input baffle with stainless wire to send the blast horizontally to avoid stirring up the sludge. Or lay the baffle horizontally to send the blast across the water surface.
If you don't have risers on the D-Box, input & output of your tank, now is the time to do this. Now is the time to add an effluent filter if you don't already have one. You WILL need them. Bite the bullet now and live happily ever after.
That is my 2 pennies worth, and please keep us informed. My aerators arrived for my D-Box today. I'll have them running by the end of the week. I must also add a gray water system for the sinks, showers & washing machine.
Best to you,
Grizz
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- Re: Solution for Septic Field cloggi... MaineGuy
11 y
17,605
This is a reply to # 2,084,737Hello all and thanks again to Grizz for sharing is successes and probably more importantly his failures.
Though I know your not a fan of aerating the 1 chamber tank Grizz, which is what I have, Casey (nice guy) over at Septic Solutions was helpful in explaining the many successes they've had with 1 chamber systems. The basics of what he told me were this and I would welcome your opinion on this Grizz. He said...
- Many of the products out there instruct you to put the diffuser by the outflow pipe. They recommend putting by their diffuser by the inlet pipe.
- Their system also has the following product which I have copied and pasted below.
"An item offered exclusively with our SepAerator™ Premium package is the Air Particle Recirculator. The Air Particle Recirculator is a barrier to prevent solid material from exiting your septic tank and entering the drain field. This barrier is essential when adding aeration to a septic tank. Under normal conditions in a septic tank the solids will separate by floating to the top as scum and sinking to the bottom as sludge. This cannot happen in a single chamber tank with aeration, as all of the solids are continually being mixed, therefore something must be done to stop them from leaving the tank.
"The Air Particle Recirculator functions as an effluent filter to stop particles, but has an added advantage over anything else you will see on the market today. A standard effluent filter under these conditions will have to be cleaned very regularly. By introducing air around the inlet of the Air Particle Recirculator, particles are pushed away from the inlet of the filter back towards the diffuser side of the tank where they will continue to break down. This action stops particles from entering and clogging the filter which allows for much longer periods between filter cleanings and produces a cleaner quality of effluent discharging from the sytem. Generally the Air Particle Recirculator will need to be cleaned every 3 to 6 months, but some systems have went as long as a few years without cleaning the filter.
"There is no other product on the market that has anything close to the Air Particle Recirculator. The Air Particle Recirculator gives our product the ability to properly treat the wastewater with a powerful air pump, yet stop solids from being pushed into the drain field."
The Science sounds good and they give a money back guarantee up to 6 months. That said, with what I've learned from Grizz's detailed documentation in the last 36 hours, the idea of aerating the D-box seems like a more simple solution if biomat is indeed the source of the slow drainage.
Ive been in my 35 year old house for 15 years. I will say that for a some time, don't really know how long, my tank's baffle was broken and I didn't realize it till I got it pumped about 10 years ago. Who knows how much 'crap' got down those D-pipes. I (like sciencesingalong) just had my single chamber tank and D-box pumped out about an hour ago after having the tank alon done a month ago. All kinds of thick black sludge came out of the D-lines. I just but 36 one pound containers of Awesome Oxygen at the Dollar Tree and am about to go put it in my leach field.
I do not have clay soil, it's on the sandy side. How much do I need to be concerned about hardpan? I haven't had time to fully read all the articles on hardpan but I plan to. Artie's website recommended an application of 9 pounds every other day 4 times. I'm pretty sure my lines will take more than 9 gallons of water. He said he's seen people put 30 gallons in at a time. I'm trying to decide if I should just mix up 30 gallons and pour it in the D-box and let gravity do the work or get a sump pump and inject the water into the lines. Will this make a difference?
I have no intention of diverting gray water unless I absolutely have to and will try to work with the system I have. Now that my tank is empty, D-box exposed and open, I need to decide what to do over the next few days as the water level in the tank starts to rise again and flow into the field. I'm thinking 4 - 5 days max though I will try to drag it out longer with shower and laundry restraints on my family of 5.
Ok...off to mix up the Awesome Oxygen. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for your input Grizz.- Re: Solution for Septic Field cloggi... grizz
11 y
17,444
This is a reply to # 2,085,069MainGuy,
Please don't mix all of it up at one time. It quickly degrades. Mix up a portion each day & spread over 4 days. I mixed 9 lbs per day into about 20 gallons of water. 1/4th of the 9 lbs of sodium percarbonate into a 5 gal bucket. Stir it frequently to make sure it is thoroughly mixed, and pour it into your D-Box. This will cure your problem of the Biomat. But it will do NOTHING for the hardpan.
You need the Septic Seep or equivalent to renovate the hardpan. I've just added competing products the same as septic seep, but less expensive. See my DOC file
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HL-0iahk8hPwqclnajsgFnaDEq6JGNMZLaCZ14c2r...
Follow direction for use as for septic seep.
IMO, the aerator should go into your D-Box and don't mess with your septic tank unless you improve the input or output baffles. All of the salesmen are "Nice Guys," that is how they make their living. I don't know anything about that product, so I am not going to disparage it. However if air is sent into your septic tank, it WILL stir up sludge. How many years was your septic tank running as a ANaerobic tank? ( 35 year old house for 15 years) How on earth can you improve on THAT? I suggest focusing on your septic field and leave your tank as an Anaerobic.
Trust me, the sludge in the bottom of your tank is like wisps of smoke. It is so easily stirred up by the SLIGHTEST of water movement, and it is zillions of microscopic sized specs. It takes well over a month to float back down to the bottom. Once it is stirred up NOTHING will stop it from getting through your effluent filter. Here is the link for what you are talking about:
http://www.septicsolutions.com/SepticAerator/RepairSepticProblems.html
Get some sludge out of your tank and test it in mason jars to see what I'm talking about.
The guarantee means nothing because it will take 6 months or more for aeration to clog up your field.
Also, not discussed by those NICE salesmen is that 90% (per SepticSeep(tm) of clogged septic fields are caused by Hardpan created by sodium from washing machine, water softeners, diswashers, sinks & showers. The aerator sites lie by omission of the vital facts about hardpan. If you don't install a graywater system, then you need to pour septic seep(tm) or equivalent into your drain field annually. Aerators will do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING for hardpan.
Grizz
- Re: Solution for Septic Field cloggi... sciencesingalong
11 y
17,150
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Hi Grizz,
Thanks for the advice, experience and notes!
I want to order the components I need for the lime-sulfer mix. But, your notes aren't clear. Right now, what is the best way to order lime-sulfer and Surfactant?
- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur + Surfa... grizz
11 y
18,762
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This is a reply to # 2,085,389Sorry my report is getting long on the tooth. I need to reorganize & simplify it.
See your nearest Farmers Co-Op or your nearest Tractor Supply or similar farmer store and ask them to order it for you:
I've added this to the report:
====================================
1 Gallon Triton X-100 - 128 oz Surfactant $58 ( Best Deal )
http://www.2spi.com/catalog/supp/triton-x-100-concentrate.shtml
Here is why we need the surfactant: for clay soils.
http://www.soil.ncsu.edu/publications/Soilfacts/AG-439-25/
Lime-Sulfur for only $68 at your local Farmer's Co-Op; Miller Chemicals #45512. (Cannot be ordered on-line.)
See your local Tractor Supply or other farming store to order, they don’t stock it, but will order for you. Ditto for the Triton X-100.
PS) My septic tank is running GREAT since I got rid of the aerator, & my last rejuvenation with 2 gal of Lime-Sulfur, now running > 4 weeks with ZERO sludge in the effluent filter and the tank water level perfect. I am feeling good that my horror story might finally be ending. I'll be taking new effluent water samples in Mason Jars soon and give a report.
Hope this helps,
Grizz
- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur + Surfa... sciencesingalong
11 y
17,453
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This is a reply to # 2,085,407Yes! It does help!
Hmmmmm. I'm now thinking I should try Sodium Percarbonate, and a follow up with Lime-Sulfur and see how it goes before the aerator. Mean while I'll work on the grey water too. - Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur + Surfa... MaineGuy
11 y
17,777
This is a reply to # 2,085,407Hi Grizz,
Could you please explain the lime sulfur application process? I realize you need to add 10% surfactant but how much is applied to the field? Is it mixed with water? If so, how much.
Also, I looked at the home depot effluent filter that's on your google doc and all the choices that are available at Septic Solutions. Big range in price from $40 - $150. Any insight would be appreciated. I'm assuming I better get this filter installed before my tank fills up again? I'm also thinking that if the outflow T-pipe is glued in I'll need to cut it to adapt the filter to it? I'm somewhat handy but having a little trouble envisioning the process.
2nd treatment of Sodium Percarbonate to be applied tomorrow.
Keeping my hopes up.- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur + Surfa... grizz
11 y
21,694
This is a reply to # 2,085,553Advertisement
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Premix the surfactant & Lime-Sulfur, then apply per the instructions here:
http://www.septicseep.com/restore_septic_drain_field.htm
Although I only used 2 gallons when my field slowed down the last time, and I saved 3 gallons for future use. The field has been Perking nicely since (4 weeks now).
The choice is between the 6 inch & 4 inch effluent filter, and the filter with a baffle at the bottom or not. Bigger is better & I like the baffle at the bottom. The Home Depot filter used to be sold at Septic Solutions, where I originally bought it.
I started with NOTHING in my output pipe. I had to add the "T" and the 4 inch entrance pipe & the effluent filter. I held everything together with stainless steel metal screws to make it easy to modify if necessary. I suggest do not use glue. I also started with nothing in my input pipe.
A coping saw or a sawzall would make quick work of cutting the old exit pipe. See the photo of my completed exit pipe here for ideas:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HL-0iahk8hPwqclnajsgFnaDEq6JGNMZLaCZ14c2r...
PS) I'm sure that I drove the hardware store salesman crazy with multiple trips to the store and asking for help fitting the 4" pipes together. We need sleeve adapters to mix thinwall to thickwall 4 inch pipes. I would not make a very good plumber ;--(( I would rather suffer death by Ugga Bugga than be a plumber for a living !
Best of luck to you,
Grizz- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur + Surfa... MaineGuy
11 y
17,324
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This is a reply to # 2,085,595Great, my last question about the lime sulfer is how long to wait after my last application of sodium bicarbonate which will be this Thursday?
My next questions is about hanging the plate under the inlet pipe. There is a baffle in front of it but even the toilet blast doesn't reach it. How exactly did you secure yours. Since I'm not putting risers on, the most simple method to me would be to wrap the wire around the concrete cover going through the handle then down into the tank on each side of the cover. I'm thinking from your description you want the water landing on the plate so to spread it out horizontally across the tank. Is that correct?
My next questions will have to do with aerating the D-box but I'm not quite there yet.
Thanks Grizz!- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur + Surfa... grizz
11 y
17,577
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This is a reply to # 2,086,079Great, my last question about the lime sulfer is how long to wait after my last application of sodium bicarbonate which will be this Thursday?
@@I don't know the answer to that one. I suggest waiting to see if you have any more problems. If it is not broke, then don't fix it principle. You may not need it for months or even years. If you have clay soil, then you might need it sooner than later.
My next questions is about hanging the plate under the inlet pipe. There is a baffle in front of it but even the toilet blast doesn't reach it. How exactly did you secure yours. Since I'm not putting risers on, the most simple method to me would be to wrap the wire around the concrete cover going through the handle then down into the tank on each side of the cover. I'm thinking from your description you want the water landing on the plate so to spread it out horizontally across the tank. Is that correct?
@@ I didn't use a plate. I simply changed my 4 inch "T" input baffle to be horizontal instead of vertical. If I have problems with this, then I will put the "T" vertical again and hang a plate below it. My horizontal input baffle is working perfectly so far. Yes, I want the blast of water from the toilet to go horizontally so as not to stir up the silt at the bottom.
My next questions will have to do with aerating the D-box but I'm not quite there yet.
@@ I am not happy with the aerators I ordered, they required too much air pressure to make bubbles. I ordered new ones today... 6 inch fish tank air stones from Amazon.Com.
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- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur + Surfa... MaineGuy
11 y
17,348
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This is a reply to # 2,086,103Hi,
It's been quite the busy summer. I am finally getting a chance to give an update on my progress since my last sodium percarbonate application on July 24th. I was able to install an effluent filter just in time before the water in tank filled up to the outflow pipe. I think the level was 1 to 2 inches below the pipe. In that 6+ weeks the water has been draining in the field. The water level in the D box varies, sometimes rising more than halfway up the pipes leading to the field but most of the time it’s under the half way mark or near the bottom of the pipes. This is a wonderful result so far.
Now I need to decide if I am going to aerate the D box. Grizz, I know it’s something you’ve been wanting to do. Have you been able to finish that project?
My D box and tank are still dug up and exposed. I need to decide whether or not to put a riser on the box or try and go the winter and deal with it in the spring. Money is tight these days. I’m thinking I should even if I don’t aerate the box, it will still be easier to do another sodium percarbonate application if I need to during the frozen Maine winter.
Thanks again for all your input Grizz.
- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur + Surfa... grizz
11 y
17,249
This is a reply to # 2,102,956>>My D box and tank are still dug up and exposed<<
OMG, I suggest for sure put in your risers. I can't imagine digging up all that dirt again. Best thing I did was to put in those risers on my tank to make it easy to add chemicals to the field. Even if you use cheap aerators made for fish tanks, I'm sure they will last a long time in your D-Box. These aerators are small and easily slipped through the tank exit pipe into your D-Box. My aerators are sitting on my desk, awaiting me to get ambitious and install them. My field is still working great since taking the aerator out of my tank. Putting that aerator into my tank was a HORRIBLE mistake.
I'm happy for you,
Grizz - Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur plus ... havoc2000
9 y
8,619
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Grizz1943 - I have seen your posts on a few sites, and you seem very "In the know". I have a house built in 1965, in southern maine. It sits upon ledge, at the top of a pretty steep hill. When I bought the home in 1996, at 26 years of age, I had the tank pumped and inspected. They found the outlet baffle had fallen off. I had it replaced at that time. It is just a 90 degree elbow with a few feet of pipe going down into tank. It just drains down into a leach bed of stone, surrounded by dark soil(old farmland). My tank is a 1000 gallon tank, and 2 out of the last 3 pumpings, it's been full to the cover, tho never have I had a symptom in the house, and there has NEVER been any sign of percolation. I decided to have a company come and hydro jet my single output line, which is a 4" PVC line until about 7' from tank, where it turns to cast iron pipe. They worked at it until the 3" foot hole they dug had filled up with water\sludge, than all of a sudden, something broke free in the pipe, and the hole and pipe emptied in seconds. The jetter guy suggested it was buildup from when the outlet baffle had fallen off, and the build up I had added over the years. I live alone in this 3 room house, so almost NO load, and all my appliances are low water useage. Sitting on a hill, the outlet pipe has at least a 45 degree angle downwards, causing a major gravity flow. He then ran my garden hose for 10 minutes into this section of pipe, and not one bit backed up. He said I had absolutely NO drainage problem, it was just build up from the fallen baffle. My 1.28 gal flush toilet wasnt gonna do what the wide open hose could do. He suggested I put 1 gallon of cess-flo in for 4 days in a row. Seeing it was that deep, I installed a "T" that comes up within 2" of the soil surface, so I can do this without digging. I did that for 4 days, as directed. My tank is still not full, but almost there, after about a month. Today, I put 5 lbs of sodium Percarbonate 99% in 6 or 7 gallons of hot water, and poured it down the "T" on outlet side of tank, based on what I've read from a few of your posts. It certainly had some reaction, as even the little spillage on the surrounding soil was foaming like yeast. This gravity system is 50 yrs old, and the guy was amazed it didnt back up under full force of garden hose, but then again, like I said, its a steep decline, and no clay. In your opinion, should I put the sodium percarbonate in again for the next few days, to just help eat the sludge up in the stone? That is my plan. I'm not even sure You will see this, but it's worth a shot. Im told my drainage is surprisingly good. Then I added 4 days of a gallon of cess-flo, and now the sodium percarbonate. I'd like to rest easy knowing I am reversing some of the buildup from over the years. I did notice that where I spilled a bit while pouring, the ground was MUCH softer, like its more aerated. That has to be a plus. Any advice, pointers? Thank You so much! Mike- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur plus ... grizz
9 y
8,630
This is a reply to # 2,288,190Mike,
It sounds to me like your hydrojet did its job and you should be OK. I would not do any more until you see how your tank is draining. The water level should not rise above the level of your exit pipe.
Put a riser on your tank so you can easily check the level, I think you should be A-OK.
Grizz- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur plus ... havoc2000
9 y
8,575
This is a reply to # 2,288,248Thanks, Grizz! I did for two days, put 5 lbs of sodium percarbonate 99% mixed with 5-10 gallons of water into the drainage pipe. Yesterday I ran the hose into the pipe for 5 mins or so, wide open, and no signs of drain field not taking the load. I am using the "T" I installed on the outlet pipe as a riser(just for level inspection). It's about 2" inches from the surface, and I figure if the tank is fuller than the outlet pipe will handle, it will be obvious, as the pipe would be backed up and full of effluent. As of right now, that pipe is dead empty. My old drainfield isnt too far from the tank. It's just a single pipe, but it is down a very steep hill, so gravity helps a lot in my case. I just want to be sure to help it recover and sustain after all these years. I guess I will just get through the winter at this point, relax, and when snow melts, I will remove cap and check to see if there is any effluent in drainage side. I'm thinking if I can freely run the garden hose into it for several minutes, I dont have much to worry about. I will pump the tank every two years to keep sludge down. Thanks Grizz!
- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur plus ... havoc2000
8 y
7,695
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Well just to update anyone who may be interested...... I made it through the winter without any issue. I frequently remove the cap from the outlet line going to my leachpit, and can see the "water" slowly flowing down the pipe towards the field, with out backup. Of course that is only for a short while after showering or laundry, then the trickle of water slows down and stops. Therefore, looks like the system is doing it's job, and I am very relieved knowing I can just dig down 2" and remove the cap and see the outlet is not plugged. That ensures my tanks not overfilled. When it's just me taking a quick shower, sometimes the level in tank doesn't even rise enough to flow down outlet pipe because there isn't a tight seal between tank and outlet pipe. Over a days time, I am hardly home at all, so the tank level drops enough from seepage to allow a quick shower and not quite reach pipe outlet level. I poured 4 gals of the Cess-Flo in early November just to help any buildup in leach bed. I will do 4 more gallons soon. This is just a precaution, I probably don't even need to do this, but I will. I will have the tank pumped next summer, and every other year going forward. Hope the info helps anybody out there looking. Mike- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur plus ... grizz
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This is a reply to # 2,309,566havoc,
Thanks for the post.
Is this the cess-flo that you used? Or another brand.
http://www.amazon.com/PEQUA-INDUSTRIES-P-101-Cess-Flo-Cleaning/dp/B001G3ZIRK
Reviews at Amazon are good for this product.
Grizz
- Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur plus ... grizz
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