Monday, June 18, 2007 — Time: 4:20:48 PM EST

Debate flowing over safety of raw milk

By Allison Bourg, abourg@altoonamirror.com

http://www.altoonamirror.com/News/articles.asp?articleID=12804

A few sips of pasteurized milk, and Kevin Handwerk is sick to his stomach. But the lactose-intolerant Handwerk, a volunteer at the State College natural foods store Stone Soup Market, can drink raw milk with no consequences.

“Raw milk has certain enzymes that help to digest lactose,” said Handwerk, who consumes between one cup and one quart of raw yogurt a week.

Handwerk and other raw milk devotees say milk loses vitamins and minerals during the pasteurization process. That’s when milk is heated up to about 160 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 15 seconds to kill bacteria, then cooled rapidly.

David Rice, who runs the Clover Creek Cheese Cellar farm in Williamsburg with his wife, Terry, began producing raw milk and raw milk cheeses about five years ago in response to customer demand.

“It’s almost seasonal,” Rice said of requests for raw milk. “We have neighbors who sell all-natural and organic food, and they often stop over for milk. Over the summer, we sell quite a bit.”

Yet others remain skeptical. Pennsylvania is one of 28 states where it’s legal to sell raw milk, according to The Weston A. Price Foundation, a Washington, D.C.-based group that encourages the consumption of raw milk.

The state Department of Agriculture warns vendors and consumers alike to be cautious.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration says raw milk can contain various strains of bacteria that could lead to diarrhea, stomach cramps, vomiting and other flulike symptoms.

“A growing number of people do drink raw milk as a healthy alternative,” said Jennifer Diemert, registered dietitian with the Mid-Atlantic Dairy Association. “As a registered dietitian, I believe all milk should be pasteurized. It’s a matter of food safety.”

She said raw milk can carry listeria, E. coli and salmonella bacteria, all of which can lead to food poisoning. Earlier this month, listeria was found in raw milk produced by a Lebanon County farm, prompting a recall.

“What I like to tell people is, it’s the middle of summer, and people are going outside without sunblock,” Diemert said. “Should you do that? No. It’s not advisable.”

She said the same is true with drinking unpasteurized milk — it can be done, but it’s not something she would recommend.

Anyone who sells any kind of milk in Pennsylvania needs a permit, and those who sell raw milk are subject to regular inspections, Agriculture Department spokesman Chris Ryder said.

Forty-two farms across the state are licensed to produce raw milk or raw milk products.

“Cleanliness is a big part of it,” Ryder said. “Mostly people with weakened immune systems, like the very young and the very old — those are the populations we need to be concerned about.”

But raw milk and raw milk products seem to be growing in popularity, he said.

“People who like to eat food that’s as natural and untouched as can be, this is something they look for,” said Ryder, who said raw milk tastes a little sweeter than pasteurized milk.

Rice said a state inspector comes to Clover Creek every three to six months. The Rices also must test their water every six months and submit a sample of their milk to the state every two weeks.

Rice, who grew up on a dairy farm, did a research project on raw milk when he was a senior in college. He said he learned that most tainted milk is contaminated during the pasteurization process.

“You really should know the farm and the farmer who is producing it,” Rice said.

Handwerk said Stone Soup has been selling raw milk since the store opened three years ago.

“Some people are leery, but we have definite advocates,” Handwerk said. “Some people with milk allergies come looking for it, though there are certain people who won’t try it at all.”

Mirror Staff Writer Allison Bourg is at 946-7520