He is taking 6tbsp/day but has cut back because it is working too well and he is having die-off symptoms, so now probably 3-4tbsp/day. He was in line for a liver transplant at one point , not sure about it now. You can buy cs at almost any health food store, even Walmart sold it for awhile. I would consider buying a cs generator for as litlle as $20 for a cheapy and $120-$200 for an automatic state of the art one. I recommend taking the low ppm 5-20 if you want to buy cs.

Here are some generators if you want to make your own for a penny/ounce instead of $5-8/ounce at the health foood store or online. You only need distilled water to make good cs.

http://photoman.bizland.com/godzilla/silvermaker.htm ($20 cheapy)

Silvergen.com (state of the art $199 SG6)

Silverpuppy.com (state of the art $120)

here is a copy of the instructions i give my friends. it will get you started while you search for other info or ask questions here. it is anything but hard. drink it till you start getting results, which may be in the form of extreme tiredness due to dieoff effect. i would be interested in your results. please stay in touch and keep us informed.




Materials list: two one ounce bars of .999 fine or better silver (rectangle preferred over round), several feet of copper wire, four alligator clips, four 9v batteries, distilled water (highest purity possible), and a quart jar with a plastic lid. Also paper towels, baking soda, electrical tape, a small laser light, a glass or plastic swizzle stick

Preparation of materials: clean the silver with water and baking soda, rubbing hard with a soft cloth, and rinse them thoroughly. Dry them well with a clean paper towel and lay them with another fresh paper towel. Snap the four batteries together in a series. They can only snap together one way - two on top and two on the bottom, laying flat on the table. You will end up with an open positive connector on one side and open negative connector on the other side of the series. Tape these all together up and down and side to side, making one large flat battery of the four. Clean and rinse the jar completely. Cut or melt two slits in the plastic lid parallel to each other exactly two inches apart. The silver bars should fit these slits perfectly as possible, so that you can slide the bars lengthwise down into the jar. These slits should also be offset on the lid enough so that another round hole can be drilled into the lid out of the way of the bars. The hole is for putting a plastic or glass stir stick into the water while processing. Clean the lid thoroughly. Make yourself two connecting wires with alligator clips on both ends. Don’t make these jumper cables to short, but they don’t need to be real long either. Ensure that the clips are affixed to the wires securely so disconnection won't disrupt the process. I cannot emphasize enough how much cleanliness is important. Pure silver in pure water is the goal. Take all precautions to keep contamination out of that jar of water.

Setting up the machine: start with everything clean and dry. Fill the jar with distilled water. Screw on the cap. The level should be as high as possible without pushing any water out onto the top of the lid even after the two bars have been pushed down into the water as much as possible and after the stir stick has been placed down into the water through the drilled hole. You also need to be able to stir without sloshing any water out, though the stirring only needs to be gentle. You only want to circulate the water inside without disturbing any of the rest of the apparatus, including touching the bars. Connect the two jumper wires to the bars sticking up out of the lid. If the slits are not tight enough to hold the bars in place, the alligator clips can hold them so that they don’t fall through. Tight is better. Do not get the alligator clips wet. Nothing but the silver, glass, and plastic should touch the water you are making the CS with. Pay close attention to this or you will make something other than CS. With the jar filled and the silver in place, the clean stir stick and the battery at the ready, you can start the process.

Manufacturing procedure: connect the battery you have made to the two jumpers coming from the silver bars. Make note of which bar is connected to the positive and which is connected to the negative. Electrolysis has begun the second you connect the battery, but at first it is very slow indeed. Double check now and make sure only silver is in the water, everything on top of the lid is dry, as much of the silver is down in the water as possible, the silver is staying two inches apart or parallel down into the water, you have your uncontaminated stir stick and laser light handy, and your connections are good at the clips. If all is going well, you will observe, perhaps with the help of the laser light, a cloud of microscopic particles cascading down into the water from between the silver bars. If this happens almost instantly and/or the cloud of particles is easily visible and milky in color, the game is over and you have contamination. I would suspect the purity of the water, especially if you have been very diligent otherwise. Start all over with a different source of distilled water. I have measured different brands with a multimeter and they do vary. In about ten minutes, you should be able to see something in there, especially with the aid of the laser. The beam will reflect off the material in the water. The silver is actually coming off the positive side. There is also oxygen and hydrogen gas being created by separating the atoms of the water molecule. The free oxygen will combine with some of the silver particles and form silver oxide. Most of these molecules will attach themselves to the negative silver bar. The color of silver oxide is brown, but it looks more like black in the water. The negative bar will slowly become black. This is good. Patience is necessary here because, depending on different external factors, it can take a long time or a short time for the process to proceed. The process can be sped up by angling the bars in the water toward one another, but that will come with practice. You want a low ampere slow process to take place for the highest quality CS. This means creating the smallest particles possible. Once the "cloud forms between and just below the bars, reach in there with the stick and stir gently, taking care not the bump the bars. Again watch for the cloud to form. With each formation and stirring, the amount of silver in the water increases and so does the conductivity of the water. This results in less time for the cloud to form. This also calls for paying closer attention and stirring more frequently. If the cloud builds up too thick without stirring, you will make more silver oxide than necessary and the particles will be larger than is possible to get, diminishing the quality of the end product. How long you keep this process up is up to you. You have CS with the first stirring, but the PPM (parts per million) will be quite small. As you continue, the black material on the negative side will actually build up, looking like a gel on the surface of the bar. Once you start to see this, you have a mild colloid, which I would estimate at about 5ppm. Keep going and you will get a higher and higher concentration. The closer you get to about 30 PPM, the larger the particles can be. Milder is better - just take more. I use a mulimeter to stop the process at about 10ppm. This is not necessary, but more of a luxury and learning tool for me. There are two things that can happen that requires the process to be terminated. One is if you wait too long between stirring and the silver oxide forms a chain between the two bars. This will increase amperage too much so stop. The other sign that you have to stop is a yellow tinge to the water or seeing the laser light through the water even after stirring the cloud away. If you have yellow color to the water, this is a sign that the particle size is getting too big to be effective for some things. I used to make only yellow CS and I drank a ton of it. I can tell you it works for candida, but it is not that good for viruses and nanobacteria. Never throw any of this stuff away. Animals can benefit from it, it is good topically, even plants respond positively.

Termination procedure: To terminate the process, disconnect the positive side of the battery first, then remove the positive silver bar. Disconnect the negative side of the battery but leave the negative bar in the water for a minute or two. This gives the silver oxide time to attach and congeal on the bar. If you have made a higher PPM concentration, there can be black boogers hanging off of the bar. Gently screw the lid off and lift lid, bar and all out of the water. Any boogers will come out with the bar. You now have a jar full of high quality CS.

Finish: you may be able to see stuff in the water, otherwise it should look clear. There will be some small pieces of silver called sparklies and perhaps some silver oxide or a sheen floating on top. There are two ways to go. You can filter the CS into another clean container through a natural brown coffee filter and be done with it or you can let the jar sit for a while after stirring and siphon off the liquid just below the surface of the water and down to about a half inch from the bottom. The sparklies will always sink. Use the remainder topically. Store your CS for human consumption in amber or cobalt glass. It will keep a long time in such. If you are making small batches fairly often, amber plastic (hdpe) will make do.

As always, there is much more, but this will give you great success. Good health to all.