My formulas are pretty simple:

Face cream:
- 3 parts shea butter(I use Jason's from the healthfood store, as that one seems to work better on the face)
- 1 part jojoba oil
- 1 part extra-virgin olive oil
- 2-3 gelcaps of Co-Q10(antiwrinkle, antioxidant)
- 1/2 to 1 tsp. vegetable glycerin(inexpensive, from healthfood store)
Melt the first 3 ingredients in a small pan over lowest possible heat on the stove - you don't want high heat as that will alter the properties of the oils, stirring them together. Remove from heat, prick the Co-Q10 gelcaps, and squeeze the orangy liquid into the mixture. Pour the mix into a cosmetic jar and put in the refrigerator for a little while until the whole mixture cools down to room temperature(it will still be liquidy), and whisk in the vegetable glycerin, - return to refrigerator to cool until the mix solidifies. It will be more like a salve than a traditional face cream, but boy, this stuff works for dry, sensitive irritated skin. This can totally replace the toxic commercial creams out there, and it has natural vitamin A, proteins, and antiwrinkle agents in it, so out with those irritating, toxic retinols!

Body butter:

- 2 parts shea butter(the shea from Nasabb.com works great for this, or the African Shea Butter company)
- 1 part coconut oil
- a few drops of lavender essential oil(soothing, anti-itch)
- a teaspoon or so of the vegetable glycerin
Use the same melting technique as the face cream, and the same guidelines for adding the glycerin.
This is the ONLY body treatment(and believe me we tried tons, both commercial and healthfood store stuff)that CURED my husband's chronically dry itchy skin. He used to scratch so bad that his legs would bleed! The shea butter is so healing because it actually works on microscopic cracks in the skin to fix them, plus it has some sun protectant qualities in it. I wore both of my formulas exclusively in Hawaii last year, and did not get burned at all.(I had a good base tan to start, but many people not from Hawaii get burned when they go there if they are not careful!)
You are right to pick up on what the wrong substances do to your body - it is well-known in alternative healing circles that anything you put on your skin is eventually absorbed into your bloodstream, and it seems that you are VERY sensitive to this, if you can taste it soon after application. Simple, clean products are the best in the long run, and less expensive too, after the initial investment for a few supplies!

Good luck with this!