February 19, 2009
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Build a Low cost & simple Magnetic Pulser
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Electromedicine
Practical Health

Finally, at long last here is an extensive update (of the 2003-08-19 original) that many have been requesting. Some additions are:

- Basic 220/240 Volt AC Circuit.
- A Simple auto pulsing Circuit.
- 12 V DC Operation
- High Power vs low power - discussion
- Polarity of Coil.
- Various other embellishments and updates - that should address many questions in the comments
- Pictures of the Original Device.
- Sites of interest.

The full Beck protocol must be followed for the pulser to be effective.... Additionally the Blood electrifier should be modified with an extra battery as this has been found to be better with due to variations in skin thicknesses.

You can access the full Beck protocol via:

Build Your Own, For Almost Free, Electromedical Research Devices. Please read related links in this post also.

"...The sicker a person is the more nutrients are needed in optimum doses to help the bodies reparative mechanisms..."

Stop all processed foods (this includes all vegetable oils (unrefined cold pressed oils such as organic Fax, olive (uncooked only) for salads, coconut and palm for cooking are the only exceptions) and most milk products, unless raw, rest are all adulterated. No breads unless cultured and made from stone ground grains! - Best to reduce carbohydrates and especially salt (but increase raw and cooked organic vegetables) and no artificial sweeteners. If you want a little sweetener go to totally unprocessed ones such as little unpasteurized honey and cane sugar. Take a little lugols iodine say a drop or two a day - don't overdo it.

Also note: dehydrated patients may not respond well to any type of therapy! Nearly all water has toxins in it! Best to use distilled to which a little magnesium has been added. Better to make herbal teas and/or drink fresh vegetable fruit juices

WARNING: This is an experimental device and uses 110/220/240 Volt AC mains voltage, build at your own peril. If not comfortable, have a someone familiar with electronics like a TV repairman build it for you.

Magnetic Pulser: Dr Bob Beck PROTOCOL - short 8 minute video:

Well finally, I have got all the wrinkles out my prototype SCR Thumpy. And this circuit has definitely got the power. You can actually feel an electric current pulse when used in the neck area - uncanny! This is subtle however. I hasten to add that power is not the be all and end all, indeed, it is quite possible to design very effective low power pulsers with exceptionally fast pulse rise times that can surpass the performance of even the most powerful pulser. Unlike the high power pulsers these minimize dangers from electromagnetic radiation. So be warned and don't get carried away with the lure of high power! It has been long known amongst alternate energy and electromedicine researchers that very high speed pulses have the ability to tap into some form of radiant energy that is generally not recognized by mainstream science. Devices with very weak but high speed pulses in nanosecond range have been build and efficaciously used by NASA engineers. This is a well known phenomena and I have worked it out mathematically to my satisfaction. More on this at a later date. One theory is that such weak high speed pulses are able to by pass the cell electromagnetic defences by their sheer speed but certainly there are other issues a play such as tapping radiant energy... For a better description on this please see Dr. Glen Gordon's video here. Dr. Gordon was a candidate for a heart transplant but managed to rebuild his own heart by just such a device.

See also: BIOELECTROMAGNETIC MEDICINE - THE BOOK

Please note that this is not a permanent magnet but a pulsed magnet and as such the polarity is not an issue, when the pulse collapses the magnetic field reverses. Hence one need not worry about the magnetic polarity.

I still don't like the auto types as the body gets habituated to non random pulses the only exceptions are possilbly the natural beat frequency of the Earth magnetic field (9.6 Hz) AND the Schumann waves (7.83 Hz) - a random pulser circuit is still the goal but due to great demand, much against my will, have now included a constant pulsing option for those who requested it. For the sake of simplicity a neon lamp is used. Unfortunately neons are not very stable and tend to vary as time goes by and may need to be replaced so use a socket for a quick change. The pulsing rate can be changed and should be changed every so often so the body does not get habituated, to that end I have added a switch to change the pulse rates...

To calculate the output energy use the following:

Formula: W=(CE^2)/2

W=energy in joules: C = Capacitance in farads: E = Voltage across Capacitor in volts


# capacitors #Joules
5* 29
6 35
7 41

*Present circuit.

More on Capacitor Charge Calculations is here.

Any SCR with PEAK current of at least 600 to 1000 amps should work. The one shown is 20 amp continuous with the appropriate peak rating. The lamps act as current limiters and protect the SCR against a short circuit. The circuit can be further simplified as discussed in point 3 below.

I have build several of these and my experience has been:

1) The capacitors develop a memory and don't fully discharge its better to use a number of them in parallel. This reduces the internal resistance and provides a better result and less memory loss. The caps must be designed for flash applications. They need not all be the same value but must be the minimum voltage rating stated.

2) In the original Beck based designs the flash tube heats and develops some resistance so you need to have enough time between flashes for them to cool down. This has been eliminated in my circuit, however, you still need some time for the capacitors to charge up. The larger the capacitor bank the longer it will take to charge up. Those planning to incorporate the automatic version must be mindful of this and adjust the timer circuit to compensate this effect.

3) Using a high current SCR (forces the caps to fully discharge by providing a longer connection than the strobe) and parallel caps from disposable cameras I can now consistently get 12 - 18 inch jumps with #14 fender washers. You can cycle them very fast (though not recommended). All for less than $30 to $50 Cdn. The most expensive part is the coil which can cost as much a $20 unless you build it yourself! One can further reduce the cost if at a latter date you don't want to upgrade to auto pulsing. This can be accomplished by removing the 10k resistor and the SCR and by simply wiring the a push to close switch in line to the coil. Don't recommend this unless you just can't get an SCR or really need to reduce cost. MAKE SURE THE PUSH BUTTON SWITCH CAN HANDLE THE CURRENT AND IS MECHANICALLY ROBUST!

More info regarding other coils options etc. is available at:

http://www.keelynet.com/biology/thumind.htm


Coil winding instructions from Dr. Beck's paper are:

"Junk VHS videocassette reels are cheap, plentiful and adequate for this application. Remove 5 screws from shell, remove reels and discard tape. Be SURE alternative spools (if used) are non-conductive or system will not work. Avoid shorter length VHS tape reels which may have center hubs larger than 1" dia. and won't hold sufficient wire. Drill 1/4" holes through hub and through center of flange(s). Make two 4" discs from 1/4" thick plastic or fiberboard, drill 1/4" center holes and another 1/4" hole off-center so coil's inside lead wire can be pulled through. These 'stiffeners' will sandwich reel's flanges so they won't warp or split as wire pressure builds up while winding progresses. A 2" (or longer) 1/4-20 machine nut and bolt with washers through centers will clamp flange stiffeners and reel and also provide a shaft to hold in a variable speed drill motor or similar winding device if used. Then remove bolt and stiffeners.

Specifications: Completely fill tape spool with #14 or 16 enameled copper magnet wire (130 to 160 turns) wound onto the 1" dia. hub and 3-1/2" OD spool with a gap width for wire of 5/8". Scrape enamel insulation 1/2" from ends and tin. Pull inside end of magnet wire through hub and stiffener and to outside. ~130 turns (about About 1-1/2 lbs should fill spool. Remove bolt, stiffeners, and finished coil. Now solder ends of 3 ft of heavy two-wire extension cord to each side of coil. Finished coil weighs ~1 LB 3 oz, has ~0.935 millihenry inductance, 0.34 ohm resistance, and takes ~20 minutes to hand wind or ~3 minutes with drill motor. An excellent alternative is an AMS brand air-core crossover inductor for home audio, #16 gauge, 2.5mH, 2-1/2" dia., $17.90 from Madisound speaker components.

pulserworking20090209.jpg

Those interested in using a 12 V DC source use a cheap 75 watt car inverter I bought one on sale for just $7 Cdn! Simply remove one of the bulbs. This of course is easier if at least one bulb is in a socket.

I have also attached a file for the free CircuitMaker Student Version electronics software for those interested in modifying the simple circuit that I have developed.

pulserworking20090209.ckt

Please share your experience so all can benefit. Thanks

Chris Gupta

Sites of interest:
- Here are a few articles on Pulsed Electro-Magnetic Field (PEMF) Therapy.
- Steffan Heydon' Home-Made Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser based on this basic design.
- Bil Green's M-Pulse 5000 with lots of supporting info.


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posted by Chris Gupta on Thursday February 19 2009
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Readers' Comments


Flowing is some feedback I recieved regarging the use of this device.

Chris Gupta

Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 04:34:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: sergio masiddo
Subject: YOU ARE SAVING LIVES


....THIS IS THE SECOND DAY I USED YOUR MAGNETIC THUMPER ON
MY BRAIN......YOU ARE SAVING LIVES......THERE IS 98
PERCENT REDUCTION OF PAIN AND DISCOMFORT...


THE GOOD LORD RECOMPENSE THEE
SERGIO

Posted by: Sergio Masiddo on August 19, 2003 03:50 AM




Cris. I have a sota puler that is not very strong as you know. It is effective to a couple of inches?? However I have also a magnetic waist belt that I use against my skin witht he pulser on the other side. Boy does that pack a whallop and it does the job in a few zaps. Need to have some professional attention to this method of inhansing the pulser to penitrate deeper . I have used it on the sinus area on my head with great relief.alson on kidneys same results. Gods speed and keep the reaseach going. The Truth will set you free owh.

Posted by: O W Hungerford on August 24, 2003 03:42 PM




Wir brauchen Ihre Hilfe.

Ihre Beschreibung MagneticPulser die Windungen
(130) Querschnitt der Spule

Gerhard Ditterich
Weistfeld 17
30539 Hannover
Germany
T +495119524360

Posted by: Gerhard Ditterich on October 4, 2003 08:20 PM




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Posted by: Tjarko Holtjer on December 5, 2003 06:47 AM




Tjarko, what is Maximol and / or NewVera?

Also it is not always true that the "problem will move to anther place" as the magnetic pulse or electric currents change the profile of he cell membranes that facilitate nutriment uptake and detox that can heal the injury pronto....

Posted by: Chris Gupta on December 5, 2003 06:15 PM




Tjarko, what is Maximol and / or NewVera?

Also it is not always true that the "problem will move to anther place" as the magnetic pulse or electric currents change the profile of he cell membranes that facilitate nutriment uptake and detox that can heal the injury pronto....

Posted by: Chris Gupta on December 5, 2003 06:15 PM




dear Christ, I´d like to know if can tell me which changes should I make to the circuit for use it al 220 v 50 hz. Is there any other automatic pulser that i caN built?
Thanks
jose

Posted by: Jose Podadera on December 7, 2003 01:25 AM




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Posted by: David Waggoner on July 7, 2004 06:36 PM




Creative Science & Research
PO BOX 557
New Albany, IN. 47151

http://www.FuellessPower.com

sales@fuellesspower.com

Posted by: David Waggoner on July 7, 2004 06:38 PM




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Posted by: David R. Turner on November 27, 2004 05:15 PM




Hi, it would be nice if you could post some pictures of the final project/board. Though a schematics is fine then for me it would be easier to also have a picture to look at.

Thanks for your great site.

Posted by: john on August 24, 2005 04:11 PM




Hi, I bought all the parts today which was pretty easy except for the SCR.

3 things:

1) shouldnt i put metal inside the coil to enhance its effect?

2) I have used 6x 560 UF capacitors (at 250 v) for the unit - will that be ok when I use 250 volt? I wanted to make it more powerful than your schematics (also, i could not find any capacitors lowwer than 270 UF anyway). Or, should I increase the capacitors to capacitors who can handle 400 volt instead of just 250 volt?

3) Your schematic is good. You could make it more clear your text because sometimes it seems like you talk about a schematic/part of a schematic which is not on the page, other times you talk about schematic 1 or 2 - and its not really clear for a newbie at least :-).

4) pictures of your units would be a great enhancement also.

Posted by: john on August 25, 2005 06:39 AM




I have built a super thumper with 4,000 uF of capacitors. I used a huge SCR. When the coil is set on the floor with an aluminum washer it will launch the washer into the ceiling leaving a dent. Two or three pulses and arthritis is gone! The schematic is under electromagnetic coil devices on my web site.

Posted by: Bob Davis on August 27, 2005 05:04 PM




Hi, make sure that if you use 220 volt instead of 110 volt that the capacitors can handle at least 450 volt.
Also, be aware that the click switch should be made of very good quality - mine blew off afer just 1-2 clicks (where I did not use the SCR also).

The SCR is probably a very, very good idea so now I am upgrading my simplified version to the one with the SCR. It should be finished by tomorrow...lets see how it works then :-)

Chris, thanks for your help about modifying to 220 Volt.

NB Please make updated schematics to make the magetic pulser oscillating wth 5.000 hertz or similar.

John

Posted by: john terry on September 6, 2005 11:49 AM




John, it is not possible to oscillate at 5,000 hertz at those power levels. The oscillation is limited to the recharge time!

Posted by: Chris Gupta on September 7, 2005 12:10 AM




Chris, I have a design schematic for a pulser that can auto-pulse at 1 and 5.000 hertz. You can ask "V" to get it or me.

Posted by: john on October 2, 2005 04:05 PM




Please sent it John, will have a look. Incidentally you cannot pulse at 5000 Hz at the powers here unless you have a humongous power supply!

Thanks

Posted by: Chris Gupta on October 3, 2005 12:00 AM




Hi Chris, 12.Nov.2005
I have used your schematic to construct a Magnetic Pulser. I am not wonderfully electronically minded; I try to follow the picture. I will try to include some pics with this email. If they do not come through, let me know how to get them to your site.
I was unable to get a 130uF capacitor, so used a 100uF @ 160v. I used, used PhotoFlash capacitors from disposable cameras and had an assortment. I firstly used 5 120uF (= 600uF) at 330V. I attached it all to a simple board. My SCR is 600v 25 A.
I had some problems. Firstly, I had wired up the SCR incorrectly, so it was not happy. (Thought that the gate was the middle terminal, not the # 3 terminal. Had to have an electronics friend help for that.
Secondly, I did not clean up the board well enough and caused a small burn across some connection, which were too close to each other. (Photo 1: Note the board scorch beneath the SCR.) I removed the SCR from the board as it gets warm with rapid use. I also changed the position of the rectifier (2N5402) as it was too close the PhotoFlash-legs connector.

It did not thump as well as I expected, so I added another 2 PhotoFlash capacitors and all was well. Total PhotoFlash capacitors now 860 uF @ 330v. I mounted the bulb, (100w) in a separate container to reduce the heat and for protection against a capacitor exploding.
The SCR and the capacitors get very warm when operating at peak times. It takes about 2 seconds for the lamp to go out ( recharge the capacitors). I now fire it between 4 and 8 seconds intervals. The thump is quite noticeable.
I used heavy duty flex from the works to the coil. I am presently in Mexico, so I sometimes have problems getting the locals to understand my bad Spanish and have to use internet pics to order difficult parts. (I have also just completed a Beck Blood purifier – and it is working.) For the coil, I used 16 gauge enamelled wire about 150 turns – with ample silicon, to prevent movement and shorting, (ordered #14 gauge, but #16 arrived). I also covered the back of the board in silicon to prevent short outs between the PhotoFlash capacitor legs. As they were already used from the cameras, their legs were short. I used heavy copper wire to connect each. Next time, I would probably use insulated wire and break the insulation at the leg points. The coil is in a plastic container. My wife and I have only been using it for couple of days, so we will need a little time to determine its efficacy. Photo 2 complete in plastic containers, yellow momentary switch and the thin plastic cover of the coil, kept open with the pliers.

I now have a few questions for you, please.
1) Will the thickness of the coil container make much difference to the coil output?
2) If I were to add additional PhotoFlash capacitors, do I need to change either the SCR of the primary 100uF capacitor? I was able to buy an SCR 600v 40A today. And could probably get an 800v 40A, now that I know the manufacturer and ordering numbers.
3) Could you let me know if it is possible to use something like the flash bulbs of the disposable cameras to not have to use the 10w large globe

Posted by: Al on November 9, 2005 11:34 PM




Hi! Cris could you tell me please the difference between a Photo flash capacitor and Electrolytic capacitor. Will they work just the same on the magnetic pulser circuit?
Thanks,
Ricardo

Posted by: Ricardo Macalino on November 21, 2005 11:35 AM




Cris, Could not find SCR here would a TRIAC work in place of it in the magnetic pulser circuit? Thanks again

Posted by: Ricardo Macalino on November 21, 2005 09:39 PM




please send me pulser circuit of ultrasound.

Posted by: semsem on November 26, 2005 12:53 PM




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Posted by: georgia on November 29, 2005 11:03 AM




Georgia,

Please read:

Lyme Disease & Rife Machines

Posted by: Chris Gupta on November 29, 2005 03:24 PM




Hi Chris, 02.Dec.2005
I emailed you Nov 12 to this forum, but I believe that I messed up my new email address, which I have now amended.
I hope that you may be able to find time to answer some of my questions from that November post.
With thanks
Al

Posted by: Al on December 3, 2005 12:53 AM




Just found your site and have Looked at your schematic circuit. I am very interested in your circuit design and have a few questions for you?

I am an Electrical Engineer so do not hesitate to be technical.

Why did not you use a transformer to step up the current in the magnetic loop?
Have you designed a timer control.

Have you designed a means by which you can adjust the current in the magnetic loop?

I have not exhausted my group of questions.

Look forward to hearing from you.


Posted by: Anders Roald Anderson on January 12, 2006 11:29 PM




A transformer just adds expense. The idea was to make as cheap as possible.

Yes I have designed a timer but just have not updated it yet.

The circuit is self limiting hence there was no need for adjustable current.

Posted by: Chris Gupta on January 13, 2006 12:22 AM




What is the function of the 120 Volt, 120 watt lamps or 2 - 60w lamps in parallel? Circuit Voltage dropping?

Should they be be replaced by a resistor of the same wattage.

Does the inductor to the right side of the schematic circuit represent the magnetic treatment loop?

If so, what physical size is the treatment loop?

What is the function of the The 10K resistor the Diode and the manual switch in the top schematic?

The link to free Circuit Maker Student Version electronics does not transfer to the link.

You should reduce the horizontal length of the circuit in order to print the whole circuit with out resorting to separate landscape printing.

Read your reponse re previous question series and have the following comments.
No transformer may be less costly, however, it will make the circuit more effective (gause wise) and provide a control range which I would consider necessary for treatment of the immune areas over the heart.

Posted by: Anders Anderson on January 13, 2006 09:41 AM




I have examined your circuit more closely and now found the answer to my previous question regarding the inductor.. And find in your preamble, this induction coil is wound on to the Video Cassette.
However, you have not shown the "Therapy Loop" as a device in your circuit, Is it in series with the Induction Circuit?

What amperage would one get in the therapy loop?

Posted by: Anders Anderson on January 13, 2006 11:35 PM




Anders,

There is no need for xformer it will not make the circuit more effective. Study the circuit more and you will have the answer.

There is no "therapy loop", it is designed to be used as per the Beck protocol.

Please reread the information before asking more rhetorical questions.

Posted by: Chris Gupta on January 14, 2006 11:01 PM




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Posted by: Mike C on May 22, 2006 12:19 AM




Mike, that is normal. It all depends on how precisely in the focus of the feild you place the washer.

Posted by: Chris Gupta on May 22, 2006 12:24 AM




It seems to want to attract metal
more than repel. I put one of those nail grid arrays next to it
and it attracted all the nails.
maybe my coil is not precise as I just used a speaker coil with 2 ohms resistance.

Posted by: Mike C on May 22, 2006 04:58 PM




please let me know where i can find these schematics that everyone is talking about on this page.thanks

Posted by: marinus gerber on May 29, 2006 01:14 PM




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Posted by: ken on June 9, 2006 07:41 PM




Ken, you can use the 250 v caps, although your will be pushing them. The two light are needed for safety and there is no cheap way to replace them. Resitors are not suitable.

Posted by: Chris Gupta on June 9, 2006 11:50 PM




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Posted by: Chris Gupta on June 11, 2006 10:15 PM




Hi Chris; have built the pulser. used five 350uf 450v cps and a 220uf 350v after the bulbs. used two very small halogen chandelier bulbs under a small mason jar on top of housing. a 15a micro-sw for the trigger. when I fire it up the bulbs light and go out in about 1.5 seconds and when triggered get only a weak pulse that barely rocks a 1.5" washer. Should the caps be closer on value to the schematic? I did the scr one.

Posted by: on June 15, 2006 12:48 PM




What wattage are the bulbs?

Posted by: Chris Gupta on June 15, 2006 03:56 PM




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Posted by: on June 16, 2006 01:57 PM




Dear Chris,
The link to circuitmaker is not working... can you please send me the JPG of the circuit with the modified SCR version ??
Regards/Mohammed Haris

Posted by: Mohammed Haris on June 27, 2006 07:51 AM




Los bulb de 120 w es un foco de filamento de 120 w normal de los que se usan en casa

Posted by: Javier Camberos on August 8, 2006 09:02 PM




Hello
Could I inquire Chris 7hVhycis their a modulaing frequency that would be most beneficial.

Than you

Ray

Posted by: Ray on September 4, 2006 06:06 PM




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Posted by: Wayne on November 1, 2006 11:54 PM




hi chris. I wud like to build an auto-pulser. May you please send me a schematic and intsructions to help me building one. I have all the components to build one. Thank you for your help Chris, it is very invaluable.

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Posted by: steffan Heydon on November 14, 2007 01:51 PM




can you tell me the frequency of the magnet pulser you have designed.thank you from jason.

Posted by: JASON MORGAN on November 23, 2007 11:26 AM




Photos with basic electronics info related to the construction of Chris Gupta's Electromagnetic Pulse Machine can be found on my web site. The information presented, will be invaluable to anyone wishing to construct their own electromagnetic pulser (thumper). http://www.twotowers.com/beck/beck_emp.html


Posted by: steffan Heydon on November 25, 2007 11:07 AM




Build a new Thumper and got some very interesting results with it. I use a bridge rectifier on a 240Volt supply. In series with an oven element of 2.2 KW to limit the current. Originally I used 3 650 uF capacitors from old photo flash units, the SCR is rated for 30 amps continuous. Now with the total capacity of 1950 uF I had a reasonable strong magnetic field. I then replaced the photo flash capacitors with high quality elyt capacitors. Also 3 X 650 UF. They are not flash rated but are very large indeed. They have screw terminals on top and are the size of rather large jam glasses. The interesting results are as following, the capacity is the same but the large capacitors actually generate pulses which are may be 50 to 100 times stronger as the flash capacitors. Also I noticed that after 30 to 40 pulses the coil gets so hot that its impossible to hold her in the hand. Also the original capacitors got rather hot after a few discharges, the big capacitors stay completely cool. One thing I have to be very careful is to keep the coil away from monitors or television receivers. During the first tests it magnetized the shadow mask of my monitor from a distance of more then 6 feet. I had a hell of a lot of work to do to degauss the tube. What I do not understand is that the overall capacity is the same, but the results are spectacular different. Best Regards

Posted by: Jurgen Vogel on January 7, 2008 11:34 AM




What would be the modifications of the magnetic pulser for 220v AC? Thanks.

Posted by: Eduardo on February 4, 2008 08:13 AM




Chris, can you please give me the modification for 240VAC version of your pulser? Thanks

Posted by: ALFONSO on February 13, 2008 02:46 AM




Chris I would like you to publish a 220-240VAC schematics..You are saving lifes here mate, please do the necessary alteration as soon as possible!Please! If Chris can't do that, please anybody else who knows how to do it, please do it!Just give us a complete schematic for 220VAC with parts etc. and I persoannly would be grateful!Thank you in advance

Posted by: Nick on March 27, 2008 10:39 PM




Are there any hobbyists out there willing to make a thumper/godzilla/beck pulser unit for me at some cost? I can be contacted at my URL. thank-you.

Posted by: HMK on April 3, 2008 11:20 AM




Hi Chris, I finally was able to get a S6020….had to order it and it took over a week to get here. Your Thumper works beautifully…washers were hitting the ceiling. Many thanks Chris....you're a legend. Kind Regards, Lothar

Posted by: Lothar on April 4, 2008 06:08 AM




Hi Chris, I am interested in the 220-240 Volt version schematic if it is available. I read a previous post, shown below, and would like to also get the details if possible. Regards, Terry "Hi, make sure that if you use 220 volt instead of 110 volt that the capacitors can handle at least 450 volt. Also, be aware that the click switch should be made of very good quality - mine blew off afer just 1-2 clicks (where I did not use the SCR also). The SCR is probably a very, very good idea so now I am upgrading my simplified version to the one with the SCR. It should be finished by tomorrow...lets see how it works then :-) Chris, thanks for your help about modifying to 220 Volt. NB Please make updated schematics to make the magetic pulser oscillating wth 5.000 hertz or similar. John Posted by: john terry on September 6, 2005 11:49 AM"

Posted by: Terry Ross on May 26, 2008 10:50 PM




Greetings! Could post the 220V plans please ))

Posted by: Alex on June 10, 2008 12:35 AM




I can convert any schematic or plan to 110,120,220 or 240v.

All... The key to conversion is the total POWER (in Watts) which is a product of Volts * Amps into the device.

Diodes and Capacitors must be rated 2.5x the input voltage. Actually it is 1.414* but then they tend to overheat. I always use 250-300v for 110/120v and 600-800v for 220/240v. A TIP:
Photoflash capacitors are designed for High-Voltage, LOW current, very quick 'low-load' discharges. A photoflash tube (Xenon) is essentially a glass tube filled with Xenon gas and an electrode at each end. The Gas is inert/does not conduct electricity, hence it can be put directly across a fully-charged set of 350v capacitors and will NOT flash. The 'secret' is a tiny transformer of 80:1 ratio, which has its output wire physically 'wrapped' around the Anode-end of the xenon tube. When 'Fire' is pressed, part of the energy srored in the capacitors goes thru that tiny 'trigger' transformer and comes out 80 times higher (350v*80=28000v) This High Voltage Ionizes the gas in the tube (turns it instantly into a conductor) and a 'short circuit spark' jumps from the Anode to the Cathode, creating a bright flash. Very little to 'No' load there, huh? A coil on the other hand, cannot be put across the capacitor because it WILL spark loudly, short out and commpletely drain the 'Cap, and produce a massive magnetic pulse. It is for this reason that an SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) is used. It CAN handle the massive short-circuit current flow of the coil device. Further, an Electrolytic Computer-Grade capacitor is larger, heavier, much beefier and can store many times the ENERGY as a similarly-rated Photoflash device.. which is why your Lyticaps THUMP better ;-)

I have built a Zapper of my own design, producing perfect square waves(!) from .01Hz all the way to 40Khz @ 0 to 300ua, using only 1 IC and 4 electronic component parts. The first one I made was back in 86; and still works, although I had to replace the batteries numerous times along the way. It is 3*2*2", uses only 2 3v batteries and the 'tingle' can be felt through the entire body, from Head to feet when one steps on one wire, and bites a spoon connected to the other.
Now I am perfecting a Thumper which anyone can make from a discarded Auto-Flash camera and a bit of time. I managed ~30 such cameras in several diff. configurations and models and am on the case!
Stay tuned
PM me if you want to chat or need help

Posted by: Supertechster on July 15, 2008 05:58 PM




Supertechster Re: "I can convert any schematic or plan to 110,120,220 or 240v." I am very interested in any info you may have on this 240V conversion. But - where do i PM you ?? Terry Ross

Posted by: Terry Ross on August 6, 2008 10:51 PM




Why is everyone increasing the capacity of their "thumpers" to such high levels, when the original Beck model was designed to create a specific micro current? This would seem to me to be straying away from the original model which worked fine.

Posted by: Phil on August 16, 2008 07:34 PM




HI Chris...thanks for you generous sharing..I been trying to build one of this ..but Im in New Zealand and 240V are not working for me ., the firs capacitor keep blowing out on me with a big BANG...mast said is a 100/450V and for the main I use a 1000/450V can't find the proper SCR got one that looks like a thryed three legs ..from I think the first is the anode second the catode and last one the gate ..if no maybe is way it does not work for me . so skeep the SCR and fired it and works the first maybe the second time and then just stop the diodes just short out so has been very desapointing ..I will keep trying..probably Im just dam as never try before any electronics...yes i know find someone else to build it ..but is not the same ..can you please give some advace especialy on the 240V and the SCR as is the only one that I been able to find over here.. and is a 800V at 35A...any help will be apresiated from anyone that use the same voltage GOD BLESS ALL. from Joe.

Posted by: J ZEPEDA on August 19, 2008 09:19 PM




I would like Supertechster to get in touch with me.

Posted by: Carl on September 27, 2008 01:50 PM




Hello Chris:
I am confused about how to attach the extension cord wire (or speaker wire) to the coil itself. Beck explains:

"Now solder ends of 3 ft of heavy two-wire extension cord to each side of coil"

Does he mean that the ends of the coil wire are attached to the ends of the cord wires or soldered directly to the sides of the coil?

Thanks for any help

Response: Yes.

Chris

Posted by: Todd on November 12, 2008 09:52 PM




Hi Chris thanks for putting up with all us electrophobs for many years now. Can you explain for me, how it is safe and not straight mains going threw the coil that would be dangerous. Can you provide a working 240V version diagram, I have now trashed 3 battery flash versions and wish to upgrade but am afraid of the mains connection. Thanks for being.

Posted by: Stephen on December 11, 2008 06:56 AM




Hi, With regard to the 240 volt operation you should all be aware that lone capacitor at the beginning is forming a voltage Doubler, so removing it and shorting it out would lower the voltage to similar to the that intended at the capacitor bank. I would also put the bulbs in series if they are 110 bulbs. Although I have not tried it so take care, and at your own risk of course.

Posted by: jon on January 13, 2009 08:58 PM




is there any step by step program to build a really powerful pulser? I can read schematics fairly well but am not electrically inclined enough to know what the parts look like or where they go...Any info you can give me would help...thanks in advance for your time..Frankie

Posted by: Frankie DeLong on January 30, 2009 01:16 AM




Hi Chris. I am getting some parts together to build one of these units myself. I live in England so I need to use it on 240v. I have sourced the capacitors, I have 5 80uf and 2 or 3 120uf, can I wire them all in parallel, or do they have to all be the same rating? Is 330v enough of a top end so that the photoflash caps don't blow. And third-ly, is Jon ^^^ right about the first capacitor near the bulbs being a voltage doubler and I can leave it out. I don't want to blow myself up or electicute myself as you can understand. I have/did have colitis (I'm going for a test next week) before I started using my flash gun magnetic pulsar and plant stimulator, now some of the symptoms are disappearing. I have got together a 10k 3w resistor for the SCR, a 3 amp push to make switch, a couple of 1n5406 diodes (rated 600v 3 amp) and a UH20FCT (which is the SCR) rated at 300v. Does it look like I'm on the right track? Or do I need further help wiring this for 240v?

Posted by: Paul Sumner on February 1, 2009 10:17 AM




A message for Todd, further up the page (Nov 12 2008 - yes I know it was an age ago). You strip back the insulation from the copper wire from the start of your winding and the end of your winding using sandpaper and solder the mains wire to each end of the winding you have just sanded. Imagine your coil as a resistor, as it were, wiring it in series.

Posted by: Paul Sumner on February 2, 2009 06:17 AM




For 240v op I used a 240 to 120v transformer to power it as is without changing anything, works great.

Posted by: Peter on February 7, 2009 11:05 PM




Paul, I am sure of the front capacitor forming a voltage doubler, the problem is at 240v the voltage on the caps is still a little too high for 330v caps suggested they need to be at least 350v with the voltage on the cap going to approx 1.414 x the quoted mains voltage, 400v caps are safer. A transformer is a more conservative approach, if you are at all worried then as 'Peter' a says transformer is the answer. For everyones information for a given capacitance if you double the voltage the joule energy quadruples therefore if you run the original circuit at 240v with all capacitors voltages suitably scaled i.e. voltage of caps x2.5 you can divide the capacitances needed by 4. However at these voltages the device become much more dangerous, so I would favour a solution keeping the voltage stored lower. All the above info is of course my opinion, and is offered in the spirit of friendship FOC, but of course used at your own risk.

Posted by: jon on February 8, 2009 07:31 AM




They sell 100w step down transformers on ebay for about £15, or 300w for £27. Don't think 100w would be powerful enough but would 300w suffice? Not sure what the amperage is of this beastie! I assume that it's at least 120w because of the 2 bulbs. Also if you visit http://www.twotowers.com/beck/beck_emp.html
and view Steffan's pulser he put the live wire to the switch which seems to go straight to the coil! Live to coil looks v dangerous. He said that a switch should always work on the hot wire, which I agree. But if you look at the diagram, that would lead the live to the coil, with no diodes blocking. This would either shock you or just turn the coil into an electromagnet without firing it off. Anyway, not sure if Chris's design should have the switch just between the bulb and power as I would not normally wire a bulb to the neutral wire alone and to go through all that circuitry to get the live back or maybe Steffan is correct? He did say that it may not matter about the polarity. After all it is AC and the nature of AC is that is loops from plus to minus. I don't fully understand that though because in that case then why can I not get a shock of a neutral wire, but I would always get a shock of a live wire. Then there's something I read recently that a switch should always be at the end of a circuit. The only problem is if I do get a stepdown transformer I would have to source 2 X 60w 110v bulbs and I'm not sure about the diodes, would the higher voltage ones still block a reverse current? Still at 21p a diode I may as well replace them eh? The bulbs seem harder to get, unless they are from china.

Posted by: Paul Sumner on February 9, 2009 07:00 AM




Actually the bulbs exact bulbs are not too critical. They appear to be acting as a simple charge current limiter.They also stop shorting the mains when you fire the trigger too. I would say that the power drawn can be no more than the that of the bulbs, since they are in parallel, it seems that 120 watts is the max power, however in theory you might need too have a bigger transformer as the effiency of the tranformer is not 100. If you use lower Wattage bulb or bulbs the circuit will work just the same, the transformer can then be cheaper and smaller, the only difference would be is that it will take a bit longer to recharge the capacitor bank between each discharge, which I would have though would not be a problem. The orginal circuit should still work with only one bulb and create less stress on the diodes and caps in the process. I will comment on some of the other stuff in your post when I get time to check it out.

Posted by: Jon on February 11, 2009 07:04 PM




i would just like to ask chris or anyone here i just built my first pulser and used old school modified camera flash. the flash is a vivtar 2000 model, what the power from a flash like that will produce out of the coil? and second when i discharge the flash there is definitely a pulse coming off the coil but the flash is not any dimmer than usual, does that mean most of the power is not getting dumped to the coil?

And also to anyone who doesnt want to wind the coil, the msm electronics is no longer selling them, but I found a company that does sell almost all size, gauge, and mH coils

http://erseaudio.com/


Posted by: bryan on February 12, 2009 03:45 AM




And also to anyone who doesnt want to wind the coil, the msm electronics is no longer selling them, but I found a company that does sell almost all size, gauge, and mH coils http://erseaudio.com/


Posted by: bryan on February 12, 2009 03:45 AM




Nearly there now guys. I tried wiring the scr every which way then gave up and bypassed the SCR and resistor. Pop, the washer jumped!! YAY!! BUT..... The SCR is good for holding the power down until it dissipates as I found out when I got a shock. I'm still here! I needed that!!! Anyway I could do with some help with alternative SCR's please and how the 'ek you wire them. I am quite naughty! Coz I ignored some peoples advice and went for wiring it up for 240v. Sorry Jon. What I did was wire everything by the diagram with the live going to the switch (even if I don't really like that, I would prefer the switch to go just before the bulbs and to wire the live that way round.) Because if this has been build 100s of times before it must be right! Anyway the secret was to wire the capacitors in both parallel and series. + to + and then - to + and + to the next - on the next cap. I got 660v rather than 330v that way, which I admit is fooooookin dangerous but it works, and there is no chance of the caps blowing that way. All capacitors ran cool and my switch has worked a few times, I'm not planning on using it much without the SCR as I don't think it's as safe without it. My smoothing capacitor for the bulbs is a single 120uf 330v (I worked it out because my other caps are 660v) If you look at Chris's brill plan the first cap is 150 v and the capacitor bank is 300v so to me 330 and 660v seemed perfect. My problem was that my SCR would not feed the caps. I had a multimeter placed accross the capacitors initially to watch them charge. They charged in about 1-2 seconds the first time then less then a second following that. When I pressed the switch (with a plastic ruler) the coil thumped and lights flickered and went out. I then unplugged the device and watched the multimeter, back up to 660v so I pressed the button.. Thump again. Then I think the single capacitor must have been charging the bank because the voltage went up to 330. This circuit as it stands is v hard to discharge. I have left it upstairs with a massive resistor across the cap bank. Another question is when unplugged the actual plug seems to get a charge from the 330v cap! I put a multimeter across and it read about 330v? Whats going on, should it do that. I will say that I left the power switch in the circuit on, maybee that has a lot to do with it. Please advise. I know I'm a monkey for playing with 240v (or 660v)but at least I know it works, and I may as well persevere with it. Another question I have is when you see Bob Beck with the coil he actually puts his tongue on it and presses the trigger. Stupid question (I'm not about to put my tongue on it now),but does the coil now need to be heavily insulated so that I can hold it, or is it still just a magnet that can't harm me? I have put insulation tape around the connections to the black box, but just simple sellotape (for now) around the coil, mainly to keep it together. Paul...

Posted by: Paul Sumner on February 13, 2009 07:57 PM




Hi Chris, I am new to this magnetic pulser circuit but decided to build one. Here in South Africa our mains voltage is around 230v. Obviously the input doubling cap and diode can’t be used on 230v. I used two 60w 230v bulbs in parallel .I wanted to use 100w but couldn’t find red ones in that wattage! Red ones look nice! The bigger the bulb wattage the quicker the charging. The capacitors I could get are rated at 330v ,which run at full voltage. They have not shown any distress at this potential so far and work fine. A 400v rating would be better. The capacitors add up to about 800uF and I have used a 40TSP16 thyristor which runs very cool. After using for a while I got tired of repeatedly pressing the trigger button and built a simple circuit to trigger the coil every 7 seconds and switch it off after 20 minutes. This is much better and more relaxing to use! To answer some of the readers’ questions. The position of the switch in the live or neutral does not make any difference as the coil will be completely insulated and the components mounted in an insulated box. As the circuit is directly connected to the mains it must be unplugged anyway if work is to be carried out .Also the capacitor must be discharged , I use a 820 Ohm 10 watt resistor. A cheap and cheerful way to reduce the voltage a little on the caps is to buy 20 cheap 2amp 1000 piv diodes and wire them in series in place of the regular diode .This will effect a drop of about 12volts which can be useful. They can be soldered together side by side and take up very little space. Brian.

Posted by: Brian on February 14, 2009 09:01 AM




simply put, i want to build a thumper. i have some knowledge of electronics and can read schematics but i have trouble applying what i see in the diagram ( which i can read ) to actually building it. where can i get a complete list of parts and where to get them? what is the diameter of the copper coil wire to make my own coil? anyone that help me out? i have a medical condition that i want to try one of these on because im tired of surgery. any help that anyone could give me would be great ...Thanks and God bless...Frankie

Posted by: Frankie on February 14, 2009 11:44 AM




Anybody who can send me the Schematics of 240 will be wonderfull. Bob Davis of "I have built a super thumper with 4,000 uF of capacitors" please send me the Schematics as the link you gave doesnt work. I will appreciate. Please Jurgen Vogel also send me yours too, i have a look at them.

Posted by: Jackson Mungai on February 18, 2009 12:39 AM




Well Done Paul, there is more than one way to skin a cat. I was going to point out the option of putting the caps in series to increase the voltage,(this does have the capacitance however) but had descided to try and guide you towards a lower voltage and probably safer device. With the extra voltage I would consider lots of insulation essential! I was interested what bulb you used ?

Posted by: Jon on February 20, 2009 01:48 PM




Hi Chris, still saving lives and freeing us from surgeons and doctors I see. I have to say, I've tryed your 240v version, it works well, but does not charge half as fast as my 240vac to 660vdc version. I have sussed out why my scr is a bit dicky. I got a new one from RS and I just needed to wire my 3 amp 10k resistor as a 6amp one by putting 2 of them in parallel. The scr could not read the lower voltage properly from the switch. Thus the caps would charge but when I pressed the button the thumper would not fire. Try it if your having problems with 240v folks. It also works with 4 amps (2 x 2a) and 5 amps (1x2a and 1x3a) sometimes work, but definitely not with an inverter stepping up the volts from a 12v car battery. I've also discovered that since I took the charging cap (the first one near the bulbs) out of the equation and the diode, as per your diagram and stepped the voltage down to 330v, the thumper wont build up enough charge across the capacitors to activate the scr-whilst using my inverter/but will on mains power. But my scr may be too big as it was rated for the 660v circuit. Anyhow, what I have learned from this exercise is that the higher voltage of my original design does not increase the thump, but because of the first capacitor and diode that runs across the caps, it does charge up almost 3 times faster. I'm sooo boring!!! Paul...

Posted by: Paul Sumner on February 20, 2009 06:20 PM