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Give the gift of ... mustard

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December 13, 2004



A jar of mustard will add a little zing to the usual lineup of homemade goodies for the holiday season.

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LEXINGTON, Ky. -
A jar of mustard will add a little zing to the usual lineup of homemade goodies we tote to our friends’ houses this holiday season.

You can make a jar of bourbon-raspberry mustard for about one-quarter of the price of what’s available in the gourmet food aisle. Mustard seeds have been around since Day 1, but plain yellow mustard was introduced in America at the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis. It was first prepared by George French from mustard seed, salt, vinegar and seasonings including turmeric, which gives it its characteristic color.

A bottle of traditional yellow mustard is about 70 cents, but the price goes up with the quality and the flavoring. If you would like to give a gift that’s just a little bit different, make a few jars of homemade mustard.

Jennifer Gleason, owner of Sunflower Sundries in Mount Olivet, Ky., sells flavored mustards made from freshly ground organic mustard seed. Her business evolved from the days when she made mustards and jams for gifts for her family and friends. ‘‘Mustard is fun to make at home and not difficult,’’ she said.

Gleason makes coarse-ground mustards from both brown and yellow seeds. She grinds them in a Vita-Mix-type grinder, and sometimes by hand with a grain mill. A small electric coffee mill works well, as does a hand-turned coffee mill.

‘‘A food processor does not work well,’’ she said. ‘‘The seeds just get thrown around, and not mashed up.

‘‘I make an English-type mustard, meaning I grind the seeds dry and add filtered water (chlorinated tap water is not good for mustard making) to the ground seeds and let it sit for several hours to let the harsh vapors escape. (Turn your head; the aroma will take your breath away.) Then I add fine wine vinegars, such as balsamic, red wine, sherry, white balsamic and champagne.

‘‘The better the vinegar, the better the mustard,’’ Gleason said. To this mixture, she adds a sweetener, such as honey, sorghum or maple syrup. Great variety comes when you add spices such as garlic, salt, pepper, chili and herbs of any kind.

Gleason makes four kinds of mustard, and the best seller is the hot garlic. It’s flavored with red wine vinegar, garlic, horseradish, pepper and salt. Sweet and savory mustard is made with local sorghum and red wine vinegar; it’s more savory than sweet, Gleason said. Sherry mustard is made with a Spanish sherry vinegar (aged in wood barrels for several years) and sweetened with pure local maple syrup. The balsamic mustard is made with a dark balsamic vinegar and local honey.

To learn more about making mustard, Gleason recommends ‘‘Fancy Pantry’’ by Helen Witty (Workman Publishing), ‘‘Gourmet Mustards’’ by Helene Sawyer (Sibyl Publications, $7.95) and ‘‘A Dash of Mustard’’ by Katy Holder and Jane Newdick (Diane Publishing Co., $20).

This word about how mustard is made is from the test kitchens of Cook’s Illustrated: ‘‘Mustard comes by its characteristic heat naturally. The plant that produces mustard seeds, the basis of all mustard, belongs to the Cruciferae family, in the genus Brassica. So do horseradish, turnips, radishes, cabbage, and watercress, all noted in varying degrees for their sharp flavor.

‘‘Three types of mustard seeds are used to make mustard: yellow (Brassica hirta), black (Brassica nigra) and brown (Brassica juncea). Black and brown seeds are hotter, so they produce spicier condiments. Real Dijon mustard is based on brown, or sometimes black seeds, which are almost identical chemically. Milder yellow seeds are used to make American, or ballpark-style, yellow mustard.’’

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SWEET HOT MUSTARD

This sweet mustard recipe is from Jennifer Gleason of Mount Olivet, Ky.

‘‘I don’t like mustards that are so sweet that the mustard plays a second part,’’ she said, ‘‘so this is more pungent than sweet.’’

1/2 cup mustard seed, light or dark

3 tablespoons dry mustard powder (preferably a better brand)

2/3 cup water (filtered or spring; don’t use chlorinated tap water)

3/4 cup vinegar (white wine vinegar or oriental rice vinegar)

6 tablespoons honey

2 teaspoons salt

Grind mustard seed. Add mustard powder and water to seeds. Mix into stiff batter; cover with a cloth and let sit 1 to 4 hours. Mix in remaining ingredients and stir well. Cover and let sit 1 more hour. Pour into sterile jars, crocks or other non-corrosive containers.

The vinegar in the mustard will eventually corrode the metal lids used in home canning, but the lids are OK to use for a year or so. The mustard will be very hot and pungent when first made because the mustard seeds are hottest when first ground. The mustard tastes best after a week or two, but those who like it hot might want it fresh.

Refrigeration will keep mustard hot longer but is not necessary. The quickest way to age mustard, is to set in the pantry in a dark spot.

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HOMEMADE MUSTARD

1/4 cup dry mustard

1/4 cup white wine vinegar

1/3 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 egg yolks (save the whites for another recipe)

In top of a double boiler, stir together mustard, vinegar, wine, Sugar and salt. Let stand uncovered for 2 hours. Beat egg yolks into mustard mixture. Place over simmering, but not boiling, water and cook, stirring with a wire whisk, until mixture thickens slightly, about 5 minutes.

Pour into small jars and let cool. Cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 1 month. Makes 1 cup.

Tarragon mustard: Follow recipe for homemade mustard; when you remove mustard from heat, stir in 1/2 teaspoon dry tarragon. Serve with roast lamb, chicken, shrimp or steaks, or as a sandwich spread.

Tomato mustard: Follow recipe for homemade mustard; adding 1 teaspoon paprika, 1 tablespoon drained and chopped pimento and 1/4 cup tomato paste with egg yolks. Serve with seafood, hamburgers, hot dogs or baked ham.

Lime mustard: Follow the recipe for homemade mustard; when you remove mustard from heat, stir in 3/4 teaspoon grated lime peel and 1 1/2 teaspoons lime juice. Serve with roast lamb, chicken, shrimp or fish.

Note: In your mustard, try a variety of other herbs, minced onions or garlic, or for a different taste, add chilies. Use a variety of dry mustard or mustard seeds that you grind yourself for different heat and flavor.

Know your seeds

-Mustard seed comes in three main types: white (also called yellow), brown and black. White or yellow mustard seeds are larger than the darker varieties but also less pungent. Brown seeds have a strong flavor; the slightly milder black seeds are most often used by Indian cooks.

-Whole white mustard seeds and powdered mustard are available in supermarkets. Black seeds can be found in Indian markets; the brown seeds are occasionally available in specialty shops.

-Store mustard seeds in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year; powdered mustard for up to 6 months. Mustard oil should be stored in the refrigerator to prevent rancidity.

-White and dark mustard seeds have vastly different flavors. Substitution is not recommended.

-Avoid contact between mustard paste and aluminum. The presence of vinegar or other acidic materials can leach metal molecules from aluminum pans. Use only plastic, glass, enameled or stainless steel utensils.

Sources: Good Cook’s Book of Mustard by Helene Sawyer, www.mustardstore.com, www.cookingvillage.com.







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