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Re: Please,How to use Sota Silver Pulser?

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Ohfor07 Views: 9,356
Published: 17 years ago
This is a reply to # 655,042

Re: Please,How to use Sota Silver Pulser?

There is a separate assembly included with the Silver Pulser that is used for making Ionic Silver. This assembly has a plastic base with a cable running from it that ends in a DIN connector. This base is used to sit over top of the container used for making the solution. For instance, if you use a tall drinking glass (glass glass, not plastic), the base straddles the top of the glass so that the two silver wires hang down into the glass and nearly touch the bottom. Based on the length of wires shipped with the SP, I've found that a quart-sized glass canning jar is nearly ideal (both in depth and girth) to use for this purpose. The base is made with tiny nubs on the underside to help hold it in place and centered over the top of such a container.

You attach the two long silver wires to this assembly by threading each through a tiny hole (2) in the assembly just for this purpose, then put the assembly over top the glass so that the base is resting on top of the glass and the wires are hanging into the glass/water. Then you plug the DIN end of the assembly in the pulser unit. The assembly has two tiny holes, one for each silver wire. There is a spring-loaded lever for each hole so that you can adjust how much of each wire sticks out the bottom. Be sure to be careful pressing these levers, until you figure out which way they need to be pressed, you may press too hard the wrong way and either bend them OR snap/break them off! You press the lever enough to expose the tiny hole, then pull the wire through to a desired length. These levers cover each tiny hole. You gently press them to uncover the hole and slide the wire in. When you release the lever, it holds the wire in place by friction. Adjust the wires for the depth of the particular container you are going to use to make the Ionic Silver with the bottoms of the wires being just above the bottom surface of the container. You want to adjust them so that the wires will be submersed almost entirely in the container. In other words, use the spring-loaded lever to adjust the wires so that the just barely avoid touching the bottom of the container. If I recall correctly, the instructions advise you adjust the length so that the wires are submersed into approximately 85% of the depth of the container. In other words, there will be roughly 15% of each wire sticking out the top of the base.

If the wires are blackened, then you want to try to clean this up a bit. The kit came with a small section of green scrubby just like used in the kitchen for non-scratch way of scraping dishes clean. Sounds like your friend did not attend to caring for the silver wires. If they left them REALLY black, you may want to take some extreme measures and use a small file to gently sand away the black gunk, then be sure to wipe away any filed dust with a damp cloth before using. Generally, you want to gently scrub/clean these wires after (and during) each use, this way they won't stay black. I noticed the probes on the bio probe are expecially difficult to keep clean this way, even when scrubbing them after use.

Just rough guessing, suppose you were to use a quart-sized glass canning jar (ball jar, mason jar, whatever) as your container It will take about 60 minutes to produce this size batch of Ionic Solution using your SP. It is preferred to use distilled water. If you want to preserve internal battery use, you can use the external AC/DC supply for this operation. Put the assembly over the container of water with the wires submersed (nearly to the bottom of the glass), turn on the unit, within a second or two you should see the LED labled "silver" light up. There is no reason to turn the intensity dial when making Ionic Silver, as long as the dial is turned enough that the unit comes on, this is all the more it needs to be turned up. The LED "silver" indicates the unit is working in Ionic Silver mode. Then, about every 10 minutes, turn off the unit ( I also unplug the AC/DC adapter just to be extra careful againsts accidental shock), temporarily pull the assembly away from the top of the container (IE> taking the wires out of the container) so you can stir the container. This helps to prevent the formation of overly-large chunks of silver ion. Also, this gives you a chance to gently scrub the wires real quick with a paper towell; you'll see some dark sediment come off on the towell. Over the course of an hour, you will find that somewhere around minute 30 the wires will start getting black and this process will continue to happen more often as you near the end of the procedure, making it important to both stop&stir regularly as well as quickly cleaning the wires at the same time. Ideally you do not want the wires to be black while you continue to make the batch. The black happens as a normal part of electrolysis reaction. This is why I advise gently cleaning them each time you turn off the pulser to stir the batch.

There are 3 basic ways to decide when your batch is done: #1) trusting the instructions that came with the SP, you can just run the unit for the prescribed amount of time based on the size of your batch; for instance, about an hour to make a quart. 2) you can give it the old "eye ball" check, gauging the strength of the solution by sight. A suitable strength of ionic silver concentration will have a slight (slight) pale hue to it, kinda like really really weak lemonade. Best way to gauge is to hold the container up in a bright light against the light background, such as the side of a white refrigerator. You may think your batch is colorless until you try this little test. If your solution gets really cloudy and or dark, something did not go right and I advise throwing such a batch into the yard and starting over. 3) use a laser-based light to check. A laser shone into an Ionic Solution will give off a particular shade of light based upon the concentration of the ionic solution. Some people even sell gadgets marketed as "ionic silver measuring gauge" that are simple laser lights sold for such purpose.


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