Inexpensive Aerators for the Septic ... 
grizz
11 y
34,382
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Old too soon, smart too late. If we don't use the EXACT correct search words, Google will simply NOT display what we are looking for. After finishing my major project of rejuvenating my septic tank leach field,
http://tinyurl.com/Septic-Solutions
I discovered the correct search word to find inexpensive aerators for the septic tank.
Aerators are required to convert a septic tank from Anaerobic to Aerobic operation. The Aerobic septic tank is allegedly far more efficient to digest effluent, and the aerated water breaks up biomats in the septic field to prevent backing up problems.
Excellent aerators can be purchased for $100 or even less.
Learn to measure the sludge level in your septic tank,
http://www.aero-stream.com/how-to-measure-septic-tank-sludge-depth/
and you will discover that aerobic septic tanks don't need to be pumped out so often.
Aerobic bubblers can extend the required pumping to 10 years or more, easily paying for themselves. ( My last septic pumping was $265. ) You don't need a special tool - you can simply use a PVC Pipe or a stick wrapped in gauze.
Use this search in Google:
Best prices for air bubblers can be found with this search phrase:
"Fine Bubble Diffuser"
I stumbled into this search term, I never would have figured this out on my own.
The required air pump & hoses are available here:
http://www.septicsolutions.com/SepticAirPumps/SepticAirPumps.html
Use a Google search of "Septic Aerators" to find the best prices. IMO, a low air flow pump consuming only 50 to 75 watts is just fine for the average homeowners septic tank. Smaller bubbles are best for aerating the tank.
Grizz
- Re: CAUTION - CAUTION - CAUTION grizz
11 y
31,309
This is a reply to # 2,033,799Rejuvenate Septic Field
CAUTION CAUTION UP FRONT ! ! ! If your tank has no baffle wall in the middle, expect to have problems with an aerator. My tank is the older design with just one chamber inside, and no baffle wall.
http://jgallagherseptic.com/how-a-septic-system-works.asp
The problem is that solids get broken down and recirculate around inside the tank instead of falling to the bottom. These tiny solids get forced through your effluent filter and end up as black MUD in the exit pipe going out to your septic field, thus clogging up your septic field to require rejuvenation..
I discussed this problem with my aerator dealer and the technician recalls one customer with this problem, and he fixed it by placing a culvert vertically with the aerator inside to prevent water from circulating around the tank. This forced circulation up & down inside the culvert, yet the oxygen in the water still spread all around the tank.
I will do the same, except use an aluminum pipe. Full details on this Aerator Enclosure with photos here:
http://tinyurl.com/Septic-Solutions
7/17/13 - Update. The Aerator Pipe failed and so did adding a LOT of aerobic bacteria to the tank. I have abandoned the aerator and gone back to my Anaerobic tank. IMO, it is just not possible to aerate a tank without stirring up the sludge, new solids & scum into Septic Soup that squeezes right through your effluent filter to clog up your septic field.
A NEW CAUTION ! Sodium Percarbonate mixed with water works great the first time, but becomes ineffective with repeated applications. The reason is that it breaks down into sodium
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_percarbonate
that clogs the septic field by creating "Hardpan." Detailed description here:
http://www.septicseep.com/hardpan_soil.htm
See this shocking video about hardpan:
http://wn.com/caliche_(mineral)
Even worse, sodium gets into the septic tank & leachfield from laundry detergent, oxy-clean, soaps & human waste.
All the more reason to pump your tank every 5 years, to get rid of the sodium.
Grizz
- Re: Problems with Aerating a standar... grizz
11 y
42,280
This is a reply to # 2,053,573Reported Aeration Problems
This is not a new problem. Here are more discussions about aerator problems:
The standard septic tank may not be suitable to use an aerator. I was able to find these reported problems that confirmed the problems I had discovered.
1) “Aerobic (that need oxygen) bacteria work much faster than anaerobic. As a retrofit a small plastic chamber is often added to the septic tank near the infeed end. The waste enters this chamber and air is pumped in and bubbled through the waste. The plastic chamber has baffles or holes so the waste can leave but it basically creates a small aerobic chamber separated from the main tank. There is some controversy about the use of a separate chamber but most seem to think it is better than just plopping a bubbler into the septic tank. The chamber prevents currents and stirring from happening which can disturb the muck layer on the bottom of the tank. Just dropping in a bubbler will aerate the tank and encourage aerobic bacteria but just like in an aquarium it stirs things up which could cause solids and unprocessed waste to pass out of the tank.”
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/wells-sump-pumps-septic-sewage-systems/4467...
This is exactly what is happening in my tank !
2) “Too much churning, or bubbles are not beneficial. Its small slow bubbles that is beneficial in septics, IMO, as more oxygen is produced in the tank. A violent burst that only disturbs the top layer, and statistics show do not help.This is why I went with the smaller bubbler and pump.” Read more:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/wells-sump-pumps-septic-sewage-systems/4467...
3) Video demonstrating sludge being recirculated by the Quad Aerator.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=1tiEUWWhyaQ
4) “Gravity fed septic tank and gravity fed drain field are not designed or recommended for aftermarket aeration systems. Converting gravity fed septic system with an aftermarket aeration system can cause more harm than you are currently experiencing with your gravity fed system. Converting a conventional gravity fed septic system to an aeration system pump can stir up solid waste found in the solid side of the tank forcing undigested sludge into the drain field, making a preexisting bio-mat problem worse further damaging your drain field.”
http://www.bio-septic.net/drain-field-restoration/">http://www.bio-septic.net/drain-field-restoration/">http://www.bio-septic.net/drain-field-restoration/
(This is exactly what happened in my tank.)
5) “There are several companies marketing an air pump and diffuser system that will convert the septic tank into an aerobic tank in order to repair the drainfield. These systems typically include an air pump or blower that compresses air and disperses it into the septic tank via a diffuser. The diffuser spreads the air out into the water to provide a good transfer of oxygen and to mix the air into the water. These systems usually include piping to connect the diffuser to the air pump, and possibly a case or cover for the air pump to protect it from the weather.
...they have one large drawback. These systems must aerate the septic tank continuously so that the contents of the tank are mixed and oxygen is transferred completely throughout the tank. These processes are called complete mix aeration systems. The problem with these type of systems is that the mixed contents of the tank (we engineers call this the “mixed liquor”) is full of solids and bacterial biomass. In a normal wastewater treatment plant, this mixed liquor is allowed to settle in a separate tank so the biomass and solids sink to the bottom and the clear water is taken off the top. These septic aeration systems don't have a settling process. When water from the house enters the tank, it displaces an equal volume of the mixed liquor out of the tank and to the drainfield. So the drainfield is receiving aerated water, but the water is full of solids and biomass that will again eventually plug the soil pores in the drainfield.” http://www.saberseptic.com/
I think I may have found a solution to these problems. Complete details & photos here:
http://tinyurl.com/Septic-Solutions
- Re: Problems with Aerating a standar... grizz
11 y
42,280
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... hamletjsd
11 y
30,894
MoreThis is a reply to # 2,033,799Any reason pumps like these wouldn't work?
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=19012&cmpid=11c...
They seem cheaper than anything else I have found and have the same one year warranty that the Hiblows have.
I am worried about running into the same issues you've had with stirring up sludge inside the tank. My septic tank does have at least one baffle wall ( I saw this the last time they were pumping. I do not have a proper access port to check it out myself), so I am assuming that as long as my aeration diffuser is not in the last chamber, not too many solids will be stirred up there and therefore shouldn't end up in my drain field.
Have you any way to determine if your metal hvac pipe contraption is really reducing the stir inside the tank?
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... grizz
11 y
31,118
This is a reply to # 2,072,427Your selection looks good.
The answer on my aerator pipe, is YES, it is working perfectly. The scum layer is undisturbed, and the color of the exit water is a perfect light gray, indicating no sludge being circulated. Additionally the effluent filter is clean (not clogged up with sludge). See "Breakthrough on my aeration problem" near the end of my report,
I'll post a message here when my testing of this breakthrough is complete in the next few weeks.
Which side of the tank are planning to put your aerator? Input side out output side? I suggest the input side to digest the max amount of sludge, then the output side will trap whatever is left over, or whatever is stirred up to escape into the output side. I suggest waiting for my breakthrough report.
Grizz
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- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... hamletjsd
11 y
30,956
MoreThis is a reply to # 2,072,507I plan to open it up a little more fully before I do it (obviously), so I will look and see how many separator walls there are. Either way, I was thinking it would be right before the last wall. In other words, if there are three chambers it'll be in the middle one and if there are two chambers it will be in the first one. Hopefully this will avoid stirring up too many solids in the last chamber
I ordered the 2+ cfm pump from Dr. Foster's ($120) and a disc aerator (made for waste water treatment) from Grainger ($30). All things being equal, I think this will give me a pretty good airflow and pretty good amount of fine bubbles for $150.
I envision creating a baffle similar to yours, but having the whole system mounted in a weighted 5 gallon bucket that I can lower down into the tank.
I'm not sure if pictures can be posted in this forum, but if I can I'll try to show you what I'm talking about.
More
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... grizz
11 y
30,807
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This is a reply to # 2,073,102Hamlet,
Yes, that is a good plan. However I have discovered that you need to add a bacteria charge and a growing medium for the new bacteria. The bacteria found in human waste is allegedly not enough to eat up the sludge. I'm using a dozen fluffy paint rollers and this Facultative bacteria charge:
http://www.septicrestore.com/
I remain very skeptical of aerating a standard septic tank after my disaster using an aerator in my single chamber tank. As of now, I think your aerator will just send ALL of your sludge into the next chamber and out to your septic field. Keep us informed.
See this link: I suspect this is true, what they say about add in aerators:
http://www.saberseptic.com/
In other words, they say that aeration is a disaster for any standard septic tank. You need a tank that is designed for aeration for it to work, such as this tank:
http://www.aerobic-septic-system.com/design-septic-system.html
I will know for sure before sometime in August. I want to give aeration every chance to succeed before I agree with the saberseptic article & scrap my aerator.
Yes, you can add photos, sellect the fck or tinymce editors.
Grizz
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... hamletjsd
11 y
30,841
This is a reply to # 2,073,250I've been a little skeptical. There doesn't seem to be consistent info available on aerating old tanks. Some people seem to think you just drop in an aerator and you're good to go, then other places warn of the dangers of moving solids into the leach field.
I have only one partition. So Right now my plan is to basically center my contraption in the middle of the inlet side and try to use my eyes and a flashlight to determine if it is causing too much disturbance in the second chamber. Not sure about adding bacteria. Again, no consistent info. Even one of the sites you posted said "all you need" is already in the waste water.
I added a "clean out" on the drain side just to give me something else to look down into to monitor what was going on. Can you think of any sort of a filter I could drop down in there? A filter might get clogged, but it'd be stopping stuff before it clogged the leach lines... and if it clogged too quickly I'd know the aeration was causing the problem. Just a thought.
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... hamletjsd
11 y
31,090
This is a reply to # 2,073,250I'm not sure why it didn't display my last message...
It seems every website has a slightly different take on the things you just mentioned. It's almost as if the "science is still out," only it's not; because some regions mandate septic tank aeration... so it's been going on for awhile.
Even while one website you posted says you need a growing medium, etc, another one you posted said "everything you need is already in the waste-water."
So what's a guy to do? So far it's at least an inexpensive experiment (relative to a $5,000+ new leach field). I'll be out about $300 once it's done (plus $350 for a septic tank pumping, but that needed to be done anyway as it's been over 6 years at the very least).
With everything dug up and open, rainwater over-filled my tank and drain field earlier this week. The whole system surged to about 4 inches above where it should be. It drained the next day. So some drainage is happening and that's good. It means that all of the digging I did to replace the clogged pipe and the gravel I added to better distribute the first 10 feet of water has helped a bit. Nothing drained at all when I started.
I'm also adding a pl-122 filter to the discharge tee ($60). It should stop most solids from getting into the drain field? Right now there is no filter at all, so anything has to be a step in the right direction. I will probably have to clean the filter more often with the churning going on inside the tank.
Anyway, my pump arrives today and I have tomorrow and saturday off of work. So hopefully some work will be getting done. Then, once my filter arrives, I should be up and going in no time at all. I'll try to post again in a few weeks with any new info and an update
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... grizz
11 y
31,133
This is a reply to # 2,074,236FYI,
I have abandoned the aerator completely. Every attempt to use an aerator in my standard tank has resulted in sludge being sent to my septic field. I've gone back to the standard Anaerobic tank design that had worked well for 18+ years. My testing proves that the only way an aerator will work properly is when used in a tank designed for an aerator.
If you install an effluent filter, it will clog up with sludge stirred up by the aerator, then water pressure will just force the sludge right through the filter into your exit pipe creating a THICK, BLACK SLUDGE going into your leach field, as happened to me.
The whole problem is caused by the aerator stirring up the sludge, new solids and the scum into septic soup that gets thicker every month, until your septic field gets clogged up.
Sludge MUST be allowed to settle to the bottom and scum MUST float to the top. This means no aerator is allowed. Bacteria will not eat up all the sludge. Sorry, but that is the results of my 6 months of testing my own aerator.
Details here: http://tinyurl.com/Septic-Solutions
My testing has proven this statement to be true:
“There are several companies marketing an air pump and diffuser system that will convert the septic tank into an aerobic tank in order to repair the drainfield. These systems typically include an air pump or blower that compresses air and disperses it into the septic tank via a diffuser. The diffuser spreads the air out into the water to provide a good transfer of oxygen and to mix the air into the water......
“...they have one large drawback. These systems must aerate the septic tank continuously so that the contents of the tank are mixed and oxygen is transferred completely throughout the tank. These processes are called complete mix aeration systems. The problem with these type of systems is that the mixed contents of the tank (we engineers call this the “mixed liquor”) is full of solids and bacterial biomass. In a normal wastewater treatment plant, this mixed liquor is allowed to settle in a separate tank so the biomass and solids sink to the bottom and the clear water is taken off the top. These septic aeration systems don't have a settling process. When water from the house enters the tank, it displaces an equal volume of the mixed liquor out of the tank and to the drainfield. So the drainfield is receiving aerated water, but the water is full of solids and biomass that will again eventually plug the soil pores in the drainfield.” http://www.saberseptic.com/
This "Mixed Liquor" is not solids that can be stopped by your filter. It is gooey sludge particles that clog up & slip right through your effluent filter, and get concentrated by the filter into MUD that exits into your septic field.
My next experiment is to add a 120 gal tank between my septic tank & the D-Box, and aerate that water.
Regarding Aeration demanded by some counties, that is for using tanks designed for aeration. A septic tank designed for aeration has a settling chamber for suspended sludge to settle to the bottom. http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aerobic-septic-system.com%2Fdesi...
IMO, My testing over the last 6 months confirms there is no way to aerate a standard tank without creating Septic Soup to foul up your septic field. If you figure out how to do this let us know. The goal is to aerate the tank and do this without disturbing the water. If we figure this out, it is a $Billion Dollar idea. Scum must float to the top and sludge must settle to the bottom. This is a critical balance.
Grizz
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... jmaynard
11 y
30,757
This is a reply to # 2,074,251Grizz,
One idea that is worth a shot is adding a particle recirculating air hose to your outlet baffle. The outlet baffle is modified to include a flat bottom (5x5) square with only two sides open. The openings are about 1 inch high and 5 inches wide. A smaller air hose is split from the main line to this baffle. The air hose is secured inside the flat plate constantly forcing air and water away from the outlet baffle inlet. This forces all of the bad particles away from the baffle and only allows the clean water through. Along with the added air hose it is best to use the fiber filter vs the plastic one. I found this concept and it is patented under patent number "US 7513995 B2". I would paste the link but cant figure it out.
My septic guy told me to add a wall keeping 2/3 of the tank for the inlet and the other 1/3 for aeration. the baffle between the two compartments would be 1 missing concrete block at about the halfway point in the tank. I don't agree with this because the aerator should be mixing in the inlet area of the tank. The whole point is to break up the solids into smaller pieces as soon as they enter the tank. The 1/3 part of the tank will be nice and settled only discharging grey water.
Josh
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... grizz
11 y
31,126
This is a reply to # 2,075,492Josh,
Very interesting ideas. However I am now focused on one thing, based on my research & problems over the last 6 months. Eliminate ALL water currents in the tank. Any form of bubbles just makes it worse, causing more water circulation, and stirring up more sludge. The Input Baffle is a really bad design. When that blast of toilet water comes through, it is directed straight down into the sludge, stirring it up and sending it out to the outlet baffle. We need a vastly improved input baffle to eliminate ALL water currents. Any ideas?
Here is my newly designed input baffle to minimize stirring up sludge:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HL-0iahk8hPwqclnajsgFnaDEq6JGNMZLaCZ14c2r...
I have examined your patent # US7513995
http://www.google.com/patents/US7513995
and in my opinion, it won't work. Here is why: The aerator in the septic tanks stirs up the water into recirculating water currents that mix the sludge, the scum & new solids into septic soup. ALL of the water in the tank is equally contaminated with solids. It does no good to send bubbles up the side of the effluent filter because contaminated SOUP will still enter the into the bottom of the effluent filter. I think that if an aerator is used, there MUST be a settling chamber between the aerated tank & your septic field.
I have abandoned using an aerator in my septic tank, and going back to my old Anaerobic tank. But we do have 2 major success stories from all of my misery & suffering:
1) Sodium Percarbonate mixed with water.
2) Lime-Sulfur
Both have worked extremely well to rejuvenate a clogged or slow septic field when added directly to the septic field via the D-Box or the exit pipe of the septic tank. Details here with photos:
http://tinyurl.com/Septic-Solutions
Grizz
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... #199794
9 y
14,616
This is a reply to # 2,075,714Interesting read. I am wanting to try to rejuvenate my field, I was thinking about aerating it at the tank and then have seen problems online like listed above.
Now I am considering actually aerating my field. I've got a clean out between my tank and field (after the filter in the tank of course) and I could drop a hose down there with an blubber. It shouldn't cause any disturbances in the tank, jut hopefully allow for the breakdown of the sludge in my field.
Any thoughts on this approach?
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... grizz
9 y
14,664
This is a reply to # 2,265,799YES!
Excellent idea! It will definitely help! You need to drill a 1/4 inch hole in the top of the pipe that exits your tank to provide an exit path for the air pressure from your aerator, or else the air may be forced up into your yard causing a stink.
The air will find its way into the plumbing stack and exit the vent on the roof.
Grizz
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... grizz
9 y
14,664
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... #199794
9 y
14,616
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... grizz
11 y
31,126
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... jmaynard
11 y
30,757
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... grizz
11 y
31,133
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... hamletjsd
11 y
30,841
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... grizz
11 y
30,807
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... hamletjsd
11 y
30,956
- Re: Inexpensive Aerators for the Sep... grizz
11 y
31,118
- Re: CAUTION - CAUTION - CAUTION grizz
11 y
31,309
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